Sunday 23rd July We had breakfast then walked to the North Lighthouse,
with something for a picnic lunch, thanks to Dave. The weather was cloudy, and it was not as pleasant as yesterday. We had a break for tea at the FIBO – first using the Visitors’ Centre,
where a barefoot Scandinavian asked us if we could give him a lift to the Kirk – or where anyone who could help are? We told him we were visitors, and couldn’t help him, although Margaret told him that she had heard someone upstairs… We started off again – another 45 minutes to the North Light. We saw a couple of men off the track being bombarded by Bonxies.
We get there and mooched around. Just to note some facts about the lighthouse. Its characteristics are that it flashing white 2 times every 30 seconds. Its elevation is 80 metres with a nominal range of 22 nautical miles from a white tower that is 14 metres high. There are 37 steps to the top of tower. We started to walk back – wanting to have lunch in a picturesque spot out of the wind! We succeeded. We then called into FIOB for another tea and then walked back to the South Island Lighthouse.
22nd July After breakfast drove up to Tingwall Airport, left the car and got the Britten-Norman Islander to Fair Isle. Josie, (a Dutch Lady), picked us up and drove us to the South Lighthouse
after dropping off a woman we met in the airport (she'd been to dentists - in Lerwick). Met Dave at the lighthouse
and had a cup of tea ... We got a packed lunch made by Dave (ex Derby!) and went up on the cliffs to have a viewpoint ... beautiful day but not unexpectedly, with a fair wind! That night - after a far too big dinner of steak pie etc. we were driven over to the Bird Observatory (FIBO) for a music night ... though that was wrong! We met John (again!) an ex Durham 83 year old, Chloe - who was from Annecy but did not sound anything but local - probably met or recognised a few others... we left at about 10:30 and we're asleep by about 11:15!
We were guests at the South Lighthouse (called Skaddan) - the North is called Skroo. We walked via the Bird Observatory to it and back ... though my right foot pain didn't help!
21st July Went to Unst via Yell today on 0915 ferry to Yell and 0945 ferry to Unst - (Toft to Ulst then Gutcher to Belmont). Drove north to Hermaness bird reserve (https://www.visitscotland.com/info/see-do/hermaness-national-nature-reserve-p246921) and Margaret saw her first puffins! Lots of Bonnies - some very aggressive with each other and gannets.
I also think I saw a Dunlin and a Turnstone or a Ringed Plover?
We had a challenging cliff-top walk, headed to Unst. As well as discovering one of Shetland’s best seabird colonies we noticed Bonxies who are proud parents & in protecting their chicks they dive bombed people although we spared.
We limited any potential disturbance & kept moving. Apparently 50% of the world’s population is in Shetland, with 650 pairs breeding on the moor at Hermaness.
They are only seen from April to September. We did a 3 to 4 hour walk on moderate ground, though with boggy areas and steep cliffs but thankfully some wooden walkways are provided. We got back to hotel about 4:30pm.... collapsed and had a tea.... then dinner at 6:15 and bed early .... ready for Fair Isle tomorrow.
20th July - Flew to Shetland from Kirkwall.
19th July - Up at 06.12 to drive to Houton for the car ferry to Lyness on Hoy via Flotta. Hoy - from The Norse meaning Háey - High Island - has an area of 143 square kilometres (55 sq mi) & it is the second largest in the archipelago after the Mainland. It is connected by a causeway called The Ayre to an island we drove around called South Walls.
Unusually, the two islands are treated as one entity by the UK census. We called in and walked at Rathwick Bay - in great sunshine but strong winds! Its a beautiful spot with azure seas near in and a bit further out gannets diving...
The dramatic coastline of Hoy greets visitors travelling to Orkney by ferry from the Scottish mainland. It has extremes of many kinds: some of the highest sea cliffs in the UK at St John's Head, which reach 1,150 feet... Near here too is the impressive and famous sea stack, the Old Man Of Hoy - which we didn't walk to. As I have written we walked instead into Rackwick Bay, which is a strikingly desolate yet beautiful beach. Enclosed by red sandstone cliffs, its pinkish sands are backed by smooth boulders. Seals bob in the breakers and seabirds nest in the surrounding cliffs.
The most northerly Martello Towers were built to defend the area during the Napoleonic War, but were never used in combat. The highest point in Orkney, is on Hoy - Ward Hill. The main naval base for the British fleet in both the First and Second World Wars, Scapa Flow, was situated at Lyness. We went for a chocolate drink at the Scapa Flow Museum.
An unusual rock-cut tomb, the Dwarfie Stane, lies in the Rackwick valley in the north of the island. It is unique in Northern Europe bearing similarity to tombs around the Mediterranean. The tomb gets its name as it is very small and was said to be carved by dwarfs. The northern part of the island is an RSPB Reserve - due to its importance for birdlife, particularly Great Skuas which we saw.
Beneth'ill Cafe - was the coffee place that was closed to start with (before 10.00!). We went back after Rathwick Bay at about 11:15 to have tea, scone and an egg & bacon roll!
18th July Next day it was bright and sunny - after breakfast we set off and explored Neolithic Orkney.
The Standing Stones of Stenness is a Neolithic monument five miles northeast of Stromness This may be the oldest henge site in the British Isles.
The Ring of Brodgar (or Brogar, or Ring o' Brodgar) is a Neolithic henge and stone circle. Most henges do not contain stone circles; Brodgar is a striking exception, ranking with Avebury
among the greatest of such sites. The ring of stones stands on a small isthmus between the Lochs of Stenness and Harray.
The Lochs of Stenness and Harray. Unlike similar structures such as Avebury, there are no obvious stones inside the circle, but since the interior of the circle has never been excavated - the possibility remains that wooden structures, for example, may have been present. The site has resisted attempts at scientific dating and the monument's age remains uncertain. It is generally thought to have been erected between 2500 BC and 2000 BC,
The Ness of Brodgar is an archaeological site covering 6.2 acres. Excavations at the site began in 2003. The site has provided evidence of decorated stone slabs, a stone wall 6 metres (20 ft) thick with foundations, and a large building described as a Neolithic temple.
The earliest structures were built between 3,300 and 3,200 BCE. and the site had been closed down and partly dismantled by 2,200 BCE.
Skara Brae is a stone-built Neolithic settlement, located on the Bay of Skaill on the west coast of the Mainland. Consisting of eight clustered houses, it was occupied from roughly 3180 BC to about 2500 BC.
Europe's most complete Neolithic village, is older than Stonehenge and the Great Pyramids.
After seeing Neolithic Orkney we drove towards Birsay and looked into the hide at the Loons....
Apparently the Loons and Loch of Banks are the largest remaining wetlands in Orkney, and the perfect places to see wetland wildlife at its best.... though we only saw a few sand martins, a very aggressive coot and some mallards - although in a field further over we saw a flock of birds we couldn't identify that had been spooked by something? I think we saw a scaup too...
We then drove into Birsay for lunch at the tea house.
Then, ignoring the Earl's Palace, we drove to enjoy a walk in the glorious sunshine at Brought Headland. Then off we set .. going around the Mainland on the A966 until we got to Finnstown where we went to look at the Maes Howe but this a tour advanced booking only so we went into Kirkwall for some ginger, for possible avoidance of sea-sickness; the Times and to post cards home... back to the hotel for dinner...
On 17th had breakfast and then drove to Stromness, thinking we could get a ferry to Hoy.... not that simple!
We watched a Pipe Band doing something - probably to do with the world famous 'Shopping Week' in Stromness and then had a coffee. We left for Kirkwall, via Huston to get a reservation for ferry to Hoy ... could only get 8am on Wednesday ... we looked at Waulkmill Bay
then we walked down to the cliffs at Hobbister RSPB reserve.
We then went into Kirkwall, parking near the Police Station and having lunch at The Reel
... tuna sandwiches... then we walked along the shopping area and bought a puffin glove and 'T' shirt for Arlo as well as a couple of postcards..
Then we walked on the front and found our way into St Magnus' Cathedral - rather magnificent ...
the original bit over 860 years old!
Then we looked at the Bishops Palace - but we did not go in and instead
headed south to see the Italian Chapel at Lamb Holm.
Crossed all the Churchill Barriers which are a series of four causeways in the Orkney Islands, United Kingdom, with a total length of 1.5 miles linking the Orkney Mainland to the island of South Ronaldsay via Burray and the two smaller islands of Lamb Holm and Glimps Holm.
The barriers were built in the 1940s primarily as naval defences to protect the anchorage at Scapa Flow, but now serve as road links, carrying the A961 road from Kirkwall to Burwick.
Then we drove South to the Tomb of the Eagles ... had a talk from an old lady about the burnt house and a talk from Kathleen about the Tomb of the Eagles
... then we had a very windy walk to see them!
Then back to the hotel for dinner .....
16th July
Got our flight to Manchester and learnt Paul was going to retire before we got back. Flew to Edinburgh then got an even smaller plane (Saab 400) to Kirkwall. Didn't take as long as I thought ... we found the car ... a Peugeot 208 with a very strange clutch! SK16 BOF. Got to hotel Lynnfield Hotel
and had dinner then sleep!
with something for a picnic lunch, thanks to Dave. The weather was cloudy, and it was not as pleasant as yesterday. We had a break for tea at the FIBO – first using the Visitors’ Centre,
where a barefoot Scandinavian asked us if we could give him a lift to the Kirk – or where anyone who could help are? We told him we were visitors, and couldn’t help him, although Margaret told him that she had heard someone upstairs… We started off again – another 45 minutes to the North Light. We saw a couple of men off the track being bombarded by Bonxies.
We get there and mooched around. Just to note some facts about the lighthouse. Its characteristics are that it flashing white 2 times every 30 seconds. Its elevation is 80 metres with a nominal range of 22 nautical miles from a white tower that is 14 metres high. There are 37 steps to the top of tower. We started to walk back – wanting to have lunch in a picturesque spot out of the wind! We succeeded. We then called into FIOB for another tea and then walked back to the South Island Lighthouse.
22nd July After breakfast drove up to Tingwall Airport, left the car and got the Britten-Norman Islander to Fair Isle. Josie, (a Dutch Lady), picked us up and drove us to the South Lighthouse
after dropping off a woman we met in the airport (she'd been to dentists - in Lerwick). Met Dave at the lighthouse
and had a cup of tea ... We got a packed lunch made by Dave (ex Derby!) and went up on the cliffs to have a viewpoint ... beautiful day but not unexpectedly, with a fair wind! That night - after a far too big dinner of steak pie etc. we were driven over to the Bird Observatory (FIBO) for a music night ... though that was wrong! We met John (again!) an ex Durham 83 year old, Chloe - who was from Annecy but did not sound anything but local - probably met or recognised a few others... we left at about 10:30 and we're asleep by about 11:15!
We were guests at the South Lighthouse (called Skaddan) - the North is called Skroo. We walked via the Bird Observatory to it and back ... though my right foot pain didn't help!
21st July Went to Unst via Yell today on 0915 ferry to Yell and 0945 ferry to Unst - (Toft to Ulst then Gutcher to Belmont). Drove north to Hermaness bird reserve (https://www.visitscotland.com/info/see-do/hermaness-national-nature-reserve-p246921) and Margaret saw her first puffins! Lots of Bonnies - some very aggressive with each other and gannets.
I also think I saw a Dunlin and a Turnstone or a Ringed Plover?
We had a challenging cliff-top walk, headed to Unst. As well as discovering one of Shetland’s best seabird colonies we noticed Bonxies who are proud parents & in protecting their chicks they dive bombed people although we spared.
We limited any potential disturbance & kept moving. Apparently 50% of the world’s population is in Shetland, with 650 pairs breeding on the moor at Hermaness.
They are only seen from April to September. We did a 3 to 4 hour walk on moderate ground, though with boggy areas and steep cliffs but thankfully some wooden walkways are provided. We got back to hotel about 4:30pm.... collapsed and had a tea.... then dinner at 6:15 and bed early .... ready for Fair Isle tomorrow.
20th July - Flew to Shetland from Kirkwall.
19th July - Up at 06.12 to drive to Houton for the car ferry to Lyness on Hoy via Flotta. Hoy - from The Norse meaning Háey - High Island - has an area of 143 square kilometres (55 sq mi) & it is the second largest in the archipelago after the Mainland. It is connected by a causeway called The Ayre to an island we drove around called South Walls.
Unusually, the two islands are treated as one entity by the UK census. We called in and walked at Rathwick Bay - in great sunshine but strong winds! Its a beautiful spot with azure seas near in and a bit further out gannets diving...
The dramatic coastline of Hoy greets visitors travelling to Orkney by ferry from the Scottish mainland. It has extremes of many kinds: some of the highest sea cliffs in the UK at St John's Head, which reach 1,150 feet... Near here too is the impressive and famous sea stack, the Old Man Of Hoy - which we didn't walk to. As I have written we walked instead into Rackwick Bay, which is a strikingly desolate yet beautiful beach. Enclosed by red sandstone cliffs, its pinkish sands are backed by smooth boulders. Seals bob in the breakers and seabirds nest in the surrounding cliffs.
The most northerly Martello Towers were built to defend the area during the Napoleonic War, but were never used in combat. The highest point in Orkney, is on Hoy - Ward Hill. The main naval base for the British fleet in both the First and Second World Wars, Scapa Flow, was situated at Lyness. We went for a chocolate drink at the Scapa Flow Museum.
An unusual rock-cut tomb, the Dwarfie Stane, lies in the Rackwick valley in the north of the island. It is unique in Northern Europe bearing similarity to tombs around the Mediterranean. The tomb gets its name as it is very small and was said to be carved by dwarfs. The northern part of the island is an RSPB Reserve - due to its importance for birdlife, particularly Great Skuas which we saw.
Beneth'ill Cafe - was the coffee place that was closed to start with (before 10.00!). We went back after Rathwick Bay at about 11:15 to have tea, scone and an egg & bacon roll!
18th July Next day it was bright and sunny - after breakfast we set off and explored Neolithic Orkney.
The Standing Stones of Stenness is a Neolithic monument five miles northeast of Stromness This may be the oldest henge site in the British Isles.
The Ring of Brodgar (or Brogar, or Ring o' Brodgar) is a Neolithic henge and stone circle. Most henges do not contain stone circles; Brodgar is a striking exception, ranking with Avebury
among the greatest of such sites. The ring of stones stands on a small isthmus between the Lochs of Stenness and Harray.
The Lochs of Stenness and Harray. Unlike similar structures such as Avebury, there are no obvious stones inside the circle, but since the interior of the circle has never been excavated - the possibility remains that wooden structures, for example, may have been present. The site has resisted attempts at scientific dating and the monument's age remains uncertain. It is generally thought to have been erected between 2500 BC and 2000 BC,
The Ness of Brodgar is an archaeological site covering 6.2 acres. Excavations at the site began in 2003. The site has provided evidence of decorated stone slabs, a stone wall 6 metres (20 ft) thick with foundations, and a large building described as a Neolithic temple.
The earliest structures were built between 3,300 and 3,200 BCE. and the site had been closed down and partly dismantled by 2,200 BCE.
Skara Brae is a stone-built Neolithic settlement, located on the Bay of Skaill on the west coast of the Mainland. Consisting of eight clustered houses, it was occupied from roughly 3180 BC to about 2500 BC.
Europe's most complete Neolithic village, is older than Stonehenge and the Great Pyramids.
After seeing Neolithic Orkney we drove towards Birsay and looked into the hide at the Loons....
Apparently the Loons and Loch of Banks are the largest remaining wetlands in Orkney, and the perfect places to see wetland wildlife at its best.... though we only saw a few sand martins, a very aggressive coot and some mallards - although in a field further over we saw a flock of birds we couldn't identify that had been spooked by something? I think we saw a scaup too...
We then drove into Birsay for lunch at the tea house.
Then, ignoring the Earl's Palace, we drove to enjoy a walk in the glorious sunshine at Brought Headland. Then off we set .. going around the Mainland on the A966 until we got to Finnstown where we went to look at the Maes Howe but this a tour advanced booking only so we went into Kirkwall for some ginger, for possible avoidance of sea-sickness; the Times and to post cards home... back to the hotel for dinner...
On 17th had breakfast and then drove to Stromness, thinking we could get a ferry to Hoy.... not that simple!
We watched a Pipe Band doing something - probably to do with the world famous 'Shopping Week' in Stromness and then had a coffee. We left for Kirkwall, via Huston to get a reservation for ferry to Hoy ... could only get 8am on Wednesday ... we looked at Waulkmill Bay
then we walked down to the cliffs at Hobbister RSPB reserve.
We then went into Kirkwall, parking near the Police Station and having lunch at The Reel
... tuna sandwiches... then we walked along the shopping area and bought a puffin glove and 'T' shirt for Arlo as well as a couple of postcards..
Then we walked on the front and found our way into St Magnus' Cathedral - rather magnificent ...
the original bit over 860 years old!
Then we looked at the Bishops Palace - but we did not go in and instead
headed south to see the Italian Chapel at Lamb Holm.
Crossed all the Churchill Barriers which are a series of four causeways in the Orkney Islands, United Kingdom, with a total length of 1.5 miles linking the Orkney Mainland to the island of South Ronaldsay via Burray and the two smaller islands of Lamb Holm and Glimps Holm.
The barriers were built in the 1940s primarily as naval defences to protect the anchorage at Scapa Flow, but now serve as road links, carrying the A961 road from Kirkwall to Burwick.
Then we drove South to the Tomb of the Eagles ... had a talk from an old lady about the burnt house and a talk from Kathleen about the Tomb of the Eagles
... then we had a very windy walk to see them!
Then back to the hotel for dinner .....
16th July
Got our flight to Manchester and learnt Paul was going to retire before we got back. Flew to Edinburgh then got an even smaller plane (Saab 400) to Kirkwall. Didn't take as long as I thought ... we found the car ... a Peugeot 208 with a very strange clutch! SK16 BOF. Got to hotel Lynnfield Hotel
and had dinner then sleep!
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