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Saturday 31 July 2010

London 23rd July 2010

Margaret and I went down in London for a few days on the 23rd July ... We stayed one night in the Sloane Square hotel (so Margaret could have breakfast at The Botanist (see http://uk.opentable.com/the-botanist). We met with Alison and Peter first, at a restaurant John Phillpotts had recommended ... La Poule au Pot in Pimlico. Everyone enjoyed the meal, then it was off to Lambeth Palace for a rare treat ... a visit to the Library (next open in 2110 - that is not a misprint!).

In the library there is …
* The MacDurnan Gospels, from the 9th century, Ireland.
* The Lambeth Bible, masterpiece of Romanesque art
* 13th century Lambeth Apocalypse
* A Gutenberg Bible printed in 1455, the first great book printed in Western Europe from movable metal type (only the New Testament I think).


* Books owned and used by King Richard III, King Henry VIII, Queen Katherine of Aragon, Queen Elizabeth I and King Charles I as well as landmark texts in the history of the Church of England
* An exceptionally rare edition of the Babylonian Talmud which survived a 1553 Papal Bull ordering all copies to be burnt, which was rediscovered in 1992
* The warrant for the execution of Mary Queen of Scots
* Papers of archbishops, bishops and leaders of church and state, ranging from the 13th century to the modern day, including papers relating to the rebuilding of St Paul's Cathedral after the Great Fire, as well as physicians' reports on the illness of King George III.

Then it was back to the hotel and onto Covent Garden for tea & a snack before watching War Horse at the New London Theatre in Drury Lane.

It was brilliant ... the puppets were manipulated in such a brilliant way that it captured the very essence of a horse. Super!

Next morning unravelled a bit as the Botanist didn't open until 9am ... Margaret is fated not to eat here! We breakfasted in the hotel's Chelsea Brasserie, then set off for the British Museum where we caught the last day of the Museum's major spring/summer 2010 exhibition

Fra Angelico to Leonardo: Italian Renaissance drawings

After a privileged quick entrance and tour we set off to catch the The Royal Academy of Arts’ exhibition 'Sargent and the Sea,' which I thought spell binding. I like Sargent anyway but to see what this really young man (as he was then), could do ... well, it was stunning. Just look at En Route Pour la Pêche (Setting Out to Fish) painted in 1878, when he was 22 years of age. See http://www.telegraph.co.uk/culture/art/art-reviews/7885831/Sargent-and-the-Sea-at-the-Royal-Academy-review.html



We got to Stan & Jane's at around 3pm, after lunch at Fortnum & Masons, in Piccadilly, where we were very disciplined and only had something light.
cThen we wandered around, looking at tins of bisuits(!), of which there were many ... all delightful to Margaret's eye!




For dinner Dave, Jill, Stan, Jane, Margaret & I went to Rivington Grill in Greenwich ...

Next day was a London walk, planned by Stan, taking in the Cutty Sark part of Greenwich; catching the Thames up to Tower Bridge Pier, then out towards Limehouse Basin (formerly Regents Canal Docks!) and to The Prospect of Whitby pub, where we had lunch.


Then we followed the towpath up past the new Olympic Stadium site, marvelling at the relatively weak security? We passed the Three Mills Wall River Weir

- created to lock out the tide, just north of the House Mill, which means that this section of the Bow Back Rivers have ceased to be tidal- the lock having been constructed so that barges from two large building projects (the London 2012 Olympics and Stratford City build) may pass through the lock, taking spoil out and delivering building materials on to the sites.
The next day we drove out to west Kent, to walk around Penshurst Place and Chiddingstone. Walked through the Penshurst estate and onto Chiddingstone. Had a picnic under the lee of some trees and then a pint in The Castle Inn. The village reputedly takes its name from a large sandstone rock formation, situated on its outskirts, named the Chiding Stone. Chidingstone was a previous spelling used for the village. Its unique in that the whole village, (except the church and the castle), is NT property. Tradition asserts that the stone was used as a seat of judgement, mainly to remonstrate overbearing local wives. Now we remember it as a rare Tudor village and as a film set! It was used
- as a setting in the 1985 Merchant Ivory film "A Room with a View";
- Michael Winner used Chiddingstone in his production of 'The Wicked Lady';
- Part of the Monty Python team filmed here for 'Wind in the Willows';
- 'Elizabeth R', starring Glenda Jackson was largely made here;
- Gerald Scarfe's 'Life of Hogarth' was filmed here too.

Sailing in Croatia June 2010

Stan and I had a week's sailing out of Split. Jane unfortunately had to stay behind to visit her sister Julia, who was ill at the time, in a London hospital, (happily now well on the way to recovery).

We chartered a Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 32i from Sail Croatia out of Marina Kaštela - a new marina, situated on the South-East shores of Kaštela bay (the Kozjak mountain are to the North and the Marjan and Čiovo peninsulas lay to the south). We spent this first night in port and the first day's sailing got us into the marina at S. Klement, on the Paklina Islands, just off the southern coast of the Island of Hvar, but not before we anchored, for lunch, in a little bay not far from Milna (next bay north, the nearest settlement being Lozisca, I think). All in all about 21 nm. Dinner that night was at the marina's 'Captain's Club'.

The weather forecast for next day was poor - the Bora, (in Croatian 'Bura'), was predicted - northerly / north easterly winds with rain. We went by water taxi into Hvar - about 10 minutes. Hvar (it's Croatian name actually descends from the Greek - Phare ... for lighthouse), is delightful. A harbour and quayside around it opens into a square leading to a market. Atop of the first significant summit is the fort. All of this we strolled around, enjoying a relaxing day. At lunch we found a slightly off the beaten track restaurant and had a John Dory between us, served with a chilled white wine and green salad - whilst seated in a courtyard.

The next day we set off to sail along the southern coast of Brač and headed for the town of Bol on Brač. We didn't sail at the beginning ... instead we were motoring in rain ... a quite chilly, wet start. After about two hours we rounded Hvar and could see Brač. After rounding the headland under which sits Sućuraj, we tried sailing. It was slow work, (about 15 nm) and by the time we had moored on the town quay at Bol things had improved, but we were hungry, and moored up and went to find lunch - whereupon we discovered a small restaurant, away from the front, not charming but pleasant enough and sat out in a shaded courtyard under a loggia of virginia creeper. Here we had sardines and a green salad, and a bowl of french fries ... quite wonderful (but we were hungry, and as Stan says - it's hard to ruin sardines!). By the time we got back to the front and the boat it was obvious that if we stayed it was going to be a very choppy night, so at 1600 hours as it was then, we cast off and made for Vrboska (another 5 nm).

Vrboska lies in a picturesque cove at the end of a deep, wooded bay on the north side of the island of Hvar. It is surrounded with pinewood forest and houses rising on both shores of a channel spanned by several small bridges
over the small river that flows into a narrow channel extending out to sea. We explored the town, walking up towards the interior of the island, alongside the small river/stream, then, at 18.15, searched for recommended restaurant, found it and had a substantial meal - 'Plato Lado' - which seemed to have every kind of meat on it and then went down to the quayside to have dessert and a coffee. We liked it here.


We left in the morning, a clear day but with poor winds, motored out into the Hvarski Kanal, heading east, then turning north, into the Brač Kanal. Once here we sailed until we reached the quarry on the head of the bay that took us into Pučišća. The town is at the furthest end of a deep bay that divides into two other smaller bays named Stipanska Luka and Puciski Dolac. The town has its own harbour - split into moorings for ferries and the bigger visitors on the northern quay and small yachts then small fishing boats on the south side of town, near the church. The town buildings are well made, charming and constructed from the beautiful distinctive white stone, quarried at the head of the bay as Pucisca is famous for is it's stone and carving. The three nearby quarries (Punta, Veselje, and Kupinovo) have produced stone that has been used in Diocletian's Palace in Split as well as reputedly The White House, Washington D.C.
Stan and I thought quite a lot of the place, and enjoyed a walk out to the headland on the north side, where we passed through beautiful conifers as we strolled on a track alongside the isolated bay. We struck lucky too, seeing a red backed shrike!

Milna was going to be our final overnight whilst at sea, (estimated 18 nm distance). The bay of Milna is the safest and best harbour on the island of Brac. The ACI marina facilities were across the small bay from the main town quay where we were directed to tie up. We ate at
Konoba Dupini, and enjoyed the service. In the morning we sailed off north, heading towards Trogir, aiming to anchor for lunch in one of the easterly bays, after which our plan was to get into Marina Kaštela by about 4pm - done. Last night on the boat after dinner in the local restaurant. After checking out the yacht we took a taxi into Split and left our kit in Stan's overnight accommodation and walked through the old town, taking in Diocletian's palace and lunch. Then I left for the airport bus and home, leaving Stan with another day in Split. A good holiday and with the idea that next year we would sail out of Split and leave the boat in Dubrovnik.

In anticipation of next year here are some words / phrases I need to learn ...
English - Croatian
Hello - Halo
How are you? - Kako si?
Good morning - Dobro jutro!
Good day - Dobar dan
Good evening - Dobra vecer
Good night - Laku noc
Good-bye - Do videnja
Please - Molim
Thank you - Hvala
Pardon me - Oprostite mi
Yes - Da
No - Ne (almost as in The Knights of Ni!)
I - Ja
You - Ti
We - Mi
What? - Sto?
Where? - Gdje?
When? - Kad?
How? - Kako
Here - Tu
There - Tamo
Good - Dobro
Bad - Lose
I like it - Ja to volim
I don’t like it - Ja to ne volim
Help - Pomoc
Do you speak English? - Da il govorite Engleski?
Bread - Kruh
Fish - Riba
Salad - Salata
Wine - Vino
Beer - Pivo
Apartment - Stan
House - Kuca

Friday 30 July 2010

30th April to 3rd May

The rest of our time at the Finch Bay was pleasant and relaxing; reading, swimming and a little souvenir shopping for the kids - interrupted by the not unexpected, but still sad news, that Auntie Jo had died. We ate out once, locally at Angermeyer Point, disrupted by a power cut, reputedly Puerto Ayora’s finest restaurant, (it wasn't), is in a house was founded by the Angermeyers, one of the earliest colonist families of the town. Set in the cabin of Karl, it is decorated with photos and memorabilia of those early days of island life. We had our meal on the broad wraparound wooden deck, on a rocky promontory facing the bay. This place is also known as 'La Casa de las Iguanas.'


Once we were back in Lima we had a full day to ourselves. First we walked out to 'Huaca Pucllana' - from the Quechuan word “pucllay” meaning “game,” and in its entirety can be translated as “a place for ritual games.” Back in pre-Inca times, it was an important ceremonial and administrative centre for the advancement of the Lima Culture, a society which developed in the Peruvian Central Coast between the years of 200 A.D. and 700 A.D. With the intended purpose of having the elite clergymen (whom politically governed several valleys in the area) express their complete religious power and ability to control the use of all the natural water resources (saltwater and freshwater) of the zone, a Great Pyramid was constructed in the Huaca. This great adobe and clay pyramid is itself built from seven staggering sized platforms.


As a whole, the structure is surrounded by a plaza or central square that borders the outer limits and by a large structured wall dividing it into two separate sections. In one section there were benches and evidence of deep pits where offerings of fish and other marine products took place in order to attain the favor of the gods. In its other section (corresponding to its administrative area), there are various small clay structures and huts made of adobe – some of whose walls have managed to maintain upright – whose function seemed to be to act as the courtyards and patios of the enclosure at over 500 meters in length, 100 in width and 22 in height.


Other remains have been uncovered belonging to the Wari culture (existing between 500 AD to 900 AD) which was a direct influence to the Lima Culture society towards the ends of its time period. One such remains to spotlight, are those of the “Señor de los Unkus” (The Lord of the Unkus) which belonged to the first tomb within the ceremonial center to have been discovered completely intact. This tomb holds three separate burial shrouds containing the remains of three adults – two of which have masks- and a fourth one for a sacrificed child.


Then we got a cab and visited Miraflores, where I bought a woollen pullover - made of Alpaca and visited the Gold Museum in the Larcomar Shopping Mall. Some awesome artifacts in here ...


In this museum there is a spectacular collection of Peruvian ancient gold artifacts and weapons. The ancient Peruvians were master metal workers and this exhibition showed some of their techniques ... the "cire perdue" or lost wax process, known across the Orient and lost in the West until the Renaissance, was the most frequent technique used by the goldsmiths. in the Gold Museum, there is a dazzling collection of gold artifacts from various pre-Colombian civilizations ... some more than 3,000 years old.


Five hundred years ago the gold of Peru attracted the Spanish Conquistadores adventurers who conquered the Inca and founded the Vice-Royalty of Peru under the Spanish Crown. Peru's Gold Museum also host a valuable collection of old and modern weapons that ranks among the best in the world. The halls in this section show the Arms of the World Collection of armour, uniforms and various ancient war tools and weapons from various ages in the world. Some of them are dated as long ago as 1300 B.C.


Lima's climate is quite mild, despite being located in the tropics and in a desert ... the micro-climate makes the atmosphere very humid throughout the year though temperatures vary from mild to warm (range from 12°C to 29°C and Lima gets little significant rainfall from this.

Wednesday 28 July 2010

First day at Eco Finch Bay Hotel


Bit of a noisy start to the day with some early departures ... I got up early and left for to go for my scuba expeditions! Margaret had a leisurely breakfast and went for a walk ... coming back thinking that the sandy cove or beach in front of the hotel could do with a daily spruce up.

After a lazy morning thereafter involving the Kindle and a hammock she had lunch, then after a rest swam until a rain storm drove under shelter to watch a duck take over the pool! Rained all afternoon and walked over to the jetty to find me at around 5pm ... no luck but saw a yellow crowned night heron, a blue-footed booby as well as a seal lion and a finch ... not bad going for a short walk! I didn't get back until about 6.30pm ...

My day involved travelling by compact pickup truck to Itibaca for the twin engine boat ride out to Cousins Rocks...




The Galápagos dive sites I would visit are Cousins Rocks, Bartolome and two at North Seymour - all neatly filmed by the Dive masters from Scuba Iguana! Here's a .jpg of the nearest Galapagos sites to Santa Cruz.



Approximately 2 1/2 hours from Puerto Ayora, Cousins Rock is a wall dive with strong currents (so advanced and expert divers).



First dive was just over 18 m (60ft) with a bottom time of 60 minutes ... air temperature was 29 C and the surface was just 5 degrees lower. Visibility was about 15 metres or maybe 30-60 feet with a moderate current. Cousins Rock is a little, shark-tooth shaped islet north east off the east coast of Santiago north and west of Bartolome. We back rolled, met at the bow and then descended to a ledge around 10m deep then down to our maximum depth - moving gently anti-clockwise ... saw Sea lions, Green Sea Turtles, Barnacle Blennies, black juvenile corals, Galapagos Seahorse, Galapagos White Tip Reef Sharks, an Eagle Ray and a shoal of Barracudas.

Baltra to Santa Cruz's Puerto Ayora 27th April


Up, breakfast and off the ship to travel to Finch Bay Eco-hotel for six days. Just off the beach at a private seaside location, between mangroves the Finch Bay is located at a place called Punta Estrada, just across the bay from Puerto Ayora and is only for pedestrian and cyclists!

Margaret shared the swimming pool with two herons and I went to book some dives with Scuba Iguana!

http://www.scubaiguana.com/html/_Day_Diving_Tours.html













http://www.galapagosvoyage.com/en/itinerary-isabella-tuesday-to-tuesday.html

Wednesday 21 July 2010

Darwin's Finches

The Galápagos finch species collectively form a showcase example of Charles Darwin's theory of natural selection. The 12 or 13 species of Galapagos finches are often called "Darwin's Finches". They are used as an example of how the descendants of one ancestor can evolve into several species as they adapt to different conditions.


These drab, quite dull birds are linked forever with Darwin's name, yet he wasn't the first to see them (Captain James Colnett, 1798 may have been) and he didn't write much about them in his book on 'The Voyage Of The Beagle'. Nevertheless they featured later in his life as he recognised the evolutionary process. Their name was popularized by the ornithologist David Lack in 1947, and since Darwin's Finches have been the subject of major studies, revealing much about the evolutionary process.

There are 14 species of birds recognised as Darwin's Finches - 13 in the Galapagos, and one on Cocos Island (Costa Rica). Whilst they are all of roughly similar size, colour their difference is in the size and shape of their beak and allows a different niche to be occupied. Warning - beak shapes are variable, size and shape in one can overlap into the range of another species - hence identification is really hard.

The rest of this section I have lifted as a quote from a great source on The Galapagos - Dr. Robert Rothman, Professor, Rochester Institute of Technology, College of Science ... see http://people.rit.edu/rhrsbi/HomePage/background.html.

(...) why we need to worry about naming them; why can't we just enjoy them for what they are? There is power in a name; to know the name is to understand the named. This is especially so in that branch of biology known as taxonomy or systematics. The taxonomist not only applies a name to an organism, but, by ranking those organisms into hierarchies of names, attempts to portray evolutionary relationships. Since 1758, taxonomists have used the system of Linnaeus to organize the living world. Linnaeus gave each organism a binomial: genus and species, which are ranked in higher and higher groupings:

Kingdom

a group of related phyla

Phylum

a group of related classes

Class

a group of related families

Order

a group of related genera

Genus*

a group of related species

species**

an individual type of organism

It should be clear from this table that the only "real" entity is the species. The higher groupings are merely an assessment of how species are thought to be related to other species, and different taxonomists may very well disagree. Among the Darwin's finches, there is general agreement as to the existence of 13 Galapagos species, although there may be one or two more or one or two less, depending on how one assesses several unusual populations. There is disagreement, however, about how those 13 species are organized into genera. Traditionally, the finches are divided into four groups, each representing a single genus: the ground finches (Geospiza), the tree finches (Camarhynchus), the warbler finch (Certhidea) and the Cocos finch (Pinaroloxias). As a group, the tree finches are more heterogeneous than the ground finches and it is current practice to subdivide the tree finches into three genera: Camarhynchus (the tree finches), Platyspiza (the vegetarian finch) and Cactospiza (the woodpecker and mangrove finches). On the other hand, finch expert David Steadman feels that splitting the finches into six genera emphasizes their differences and suggests that all of the finches should be united as 14 species in the singe genus Geospiza to emphasize their similarities!! But whether you split them into six genera or lump them into one, everybody pretty much agrees on the same 14 species. The only real entity is the species. The table below gives the genus and species names for all of the finches:

THE FOURTEEN SPECIES OF DARWIN'S FINCHES

A. Ground Finches


1/ Small Ground Finch - Geospiza fuliginosa

2/ Medium Ground Finch - Geospiza fortis

3/ Large Ground Finch - Geospiza magnirostris

4/ Sharp-beaked ground Finch - Geospiza difficilis

5/ Cactus Ground Finch - Geospiza scandens

6/ Large Cactus Ground Finch - Geospiza conirostris

B. Tree Finches

1/ Small Tree Finch - Camarhynchus parvulus

2/ Medium Tree Finch - Camarhynchus pauper

3/ Large Tree Finch - Camarhynchus psittacula

C. Woodpecker Finch - Cactospiza pallidus

D. Mangrove Finch - Cactospiza heliobates

E. Vegetarian Finch
- Platyspiza crassirostris

F. Warbler Finch - Certhidea olivacea

G. Cocos Island Finch - Pinaroloxias inornata

Identification of finches can be extremely intimidating.


Dr. Robert Rothman doesn't mention the Vampire Finch, Geospiza difficilis septentrionalis,a close relative of the Sharp-beaked ground Finch - Geospiza difficilis, and I don't know why (but will ask him!).

Now interestingly, if we focus on just one finch - let's pick the large cactus finch Geospiza conirostrison Isla Genovesa (Tower Island), we can find various kinds of morphism. Males are dimorphic in song type: songs A and B are quite distinct. Also, males with song A have shorter bills than B males. With these beaks males are able to feed differently on their favourite cactus, the prickly pear Opuntia echios. Those with long beaks are able to punch holes in the cactus fruit and eat the fleshy aril pulp which surrounds the seeds, whereas those with shorter beaks tear apart the cactus base and eat the pulp and any insect larvae and pupae (both groups eat flowers and buds). This dimorphism clearly maximises their feeding opportunities during the non-breeding season when food is scarce. If the population is panmixic, then Geospiza conirostris exhibits a balanced genetic polymorphism and not, as originally supposed, a case of nascent sympatric speciation. The selection maintaining the polymorphism maximises the species' niche by expanding its feeding opportunity. The genetics of this situation cannot be clarified in the absence of a detailed breeding program, but two loci with linkage disequilibrium is a possibility. Another interesting dimorphism is for the bills of young finches, which are either 'pink' or 'yellow'. All species of Darwin's finches exhibit this morphism, which lasts for two months. No interpretation of this phenomenon is known.

The Large Cactus Finch (Geospiza conirostris) is a species of bird in the tanager family Thraupidae - restricted to Española, Genovesa, Darwin, and Wolf Islands. This rather dark bird resembles the smaller and finer-beaked Common Cactus Finch, but the two species do not co-inhabit any island. There are significant differences between the subspecies of the Large Cactus Finch; G. c. conirostris of Española has a far larger beak than G. c. darwinii and G. c. propinqua of the remaining three islands. Its natural habitat is dry shrub-land and it is commonly seen on the ground. Its main food source is the cactus Opuntia sp.

The Sharp-beaked Ground Finch (Geospiza difficilis) is a species of bird in the Darwin's finch group of the tanager family Thraupidae. This rather small, slender-billed bird is endemic to the Galápagos Islands, where found on Fernandina, Santiago, Pinta, Genovesa, Darwin and Wolf. On the first three islands, it breeds in the humid highlands and disperses afterwards, but on the remaining smaller and lower islands the Sharp-beaked Ground Finch is found in the arid zone year-round. Formerly it was also present in the highlands of several other islands, and it is possible it still occurs on Isabela. The subspecies on the islands of Darwin and Wolf has gained a level of notoriety due to its habit of feeding on blood of large birds, notably boobies, gaining it the common name Vampire Finch (Geospiza difficilis septentrionalis), it's a small bird native to the Galápagos Islands and a distinct subspecies of the Sharp-beaked Ground Finch (Geospiza difficilis) endemic to Wolf and Darwin Islands (Grant et al. 2000). The vampire finch is sexually dimorphic as typical for its genus, with the males being primarily black and the females grey with brown streaks. It has the largest and most pointed beak of all G. difficilis subspecies, and overall looks like a miniature Common Cactus-Finch rather than, as the other subspecies do, a large Small Ground-Finch with a straight bill (Schluter & Grant 1984). It has a lilting song on Wolf, a buzzing song on Darwin, and whistling calls on both islands; only on Wolf, a drawn-out, buzzing call is also uttered.(Grant et al. 2000). This bird is most famous for its unusual diet. The Vampire Finch occasionally feeds by drinking the blood of other birds, chiefly the Nazca and Blue-footed Boobies, pecking at their skin with their sharp beaks until blood is drawn (Schluter & Grant 1984). Curiously, the boobies do not offer much resistance against this. It has been theorized that this behavior evolved from the pecking behavior that the finch used to clean parasites from the plumage of the booby. The finches also feed on eggs, stealing them just after they are laid and rolling them (by pushing with their legs and using their beak as a pivot) into rocks until they break. More conventionally for birds, but still unusual among Geospiza, they also take nectar from Galápagos prickly pear (Opuntia echios var. gigantea) flowers at least on Wolf (Schluter & Grant 1984). The reasons for these peculiar feeding habits are the lack of freshwater on these birds' home islands. Nonetheless, the mainstay of their diet is made up from seeds and invertebrates as in their congeners (Schluter & Grant 1984). The vampire finch is endangered, being a small-island endemic.

Medium Tree Finch - Camarhynchus pauper Critically Endangered as it has a very small range on a single island, and recent information suggests that it is declining rapidly owing to the effects of the parasite Philornis downsi; a species of fly - Diptera Muscidae first recorded in Trinidad, accidentally introduced to the Galapagos and, though the adults feed on fruit, they lay their eggs in nests and the hatchlings are parasitic larvae feeding on developing nestlings thus causing significant mortality.

The Small Ground Finch (Geospiza fuliginosa) is a species of bird in the Darwin's finch group of the tanager family Thraupidae and is common and widespread in shrub-land, woodland and other habitats on most islands in the archipelago. It commonly feeds on parasites from the skin of Galápagos tortoises, and Galápagos land and marine iguanas.

Large Ground Finch (Geospiza magnirostris) of the family Thraupidae, (formerly in the Emberizidae) - with a natural habitat that is subtropical dry shrub-land this finch has a beak that can crack hard shells.

The Common Cactus Finch or Small Cactus Finch (Geospiza scandens) is found on most islands, with the notable exception of Fernandina, Española, Genovesa, Darwin and Wolf. Most of these islands are inhabited by its close relative, the Large Cactus Finch. Its natural habitats are dry scrub-land and woodland. It is usually closely associated with the cactus Opuntia sp.

The Vegetarian Finch (Platyspiza crassirostris) is in the tanager family Thraupidae, monotypic within the genus Platyspiza and is endemic to the Galapagos Islands and its natural habitats are subtropical or tropical dry forests and subtropical or tropical moist montanes (see note after Large Tree Finch write up).

The Large Tree Finch's (Camarhynchus psittacula)natural habitats are subtropical or tropical dry forests and subtropical or tropical moist montane, which are regions generally with cooler temperatures and often have higher rainfall than the adjacent lowland regions, and are frequently home to distinct communities of plants and animals. Note: the term "montane" means "of the mountains". However, montane ecosystems are typically well-forested as they lie considerably below the tree line. The zone around the tree line, where individual trees and krummholz but no forests are found, is known as sub-alpine, while the lowest of the tree-less regions further up a mountain is the alpine zone.

Medium Tree Finch, Camarhynchus pauper is a critically endangered species found on Floreana Island at elevations above 250 metres in moist highland forest habitat its breeding habitat is dominated by Scalesia pedunculata trees but is threatened by habitat loss from clearance for agriculture and introduced predators such as rats, mice, cats, and the Smooth-billed Ani. The diurnal Galapagos Short-eared Owl is its only remaining natural predator. The introduced parasite Philornis downsi is also a significant threat to the survival of this species. Parasitic larvae of this fly live in the nest material and feed on the blood and body tissues of nestlings.P. downsi causes high nestling mortality. They generally lay 2-3 eggs. Eggs are incubated for approximately 12 days, and nestlings are fed by both parents at the nest for approximately 14 days before fledging. The range of beak sizes of the Medium Tree Finch on Floreana and the Large Tree Finch, Camarhynchus psittacula, on Isabela is roughly the same. This reflects the fact that the two species feed on the same type and size of insect. The beak of the Medium Tree Finch is intermediate in size between the Small Tree Finch and Large Tree Finch. All three species are found in the same habitat.




The Small Tree Finch (Camarhynchus parvulus) of the Darwin's finch group of the tanager family Thraupidae, [see picture left].

It is endemic to the Galapagos Islands. Its natural habitats are subtropical or tropical dry forests and subtropical or tropical dry shrub-land.

Woodpecker Finch, Camarhynchus pallidus, [below], occurs widely in the Galapagos Islands, from sea level to high elevations. It has gained fame due to its capability of using a twig, stick, or cactus spine as a tool, which is used as compensation for its short tongue. The finch manipulates the tool to dislodge invertebrate prey such as grubs from trees. The same tool can be used many times on many different trees.

Woodpecker Finch
Scientists have observed that the finches may shorten the stick or spine to make it more manageable. The finches may also try various sticks or spines at one site before finding just the appropriate one that can reach and extract the prey item. During the dry season, Woodpecker Finches use tools during half their foraging time, using these tools to acquire up to 50% of their prey. This means they obtain even more food via tool use than chimpanzees, the most proficient non-human primate tool users.

The Mangrove Finch, (Camarhynchus heliobates)
Poised on the brink of extinction, this diminutive finch is a species of bird in the Darwin's finch group of the tanager family Thraupidae, and is not only the most endangered of Darwin’s finches, but is also one of the rarest birds worldwide. Like the other twelve species of Darwin’s finches endemic to the Galapagos Islands, this species has evolved a specialised beak shape, enabling it to exploit a particular habitat and diet. In the case of the mangrove finch, the beak is long and pointed, with a down-curved culmen, enabling this species to lift scales of tree bark, and pick off insect prey. Plumage is dull brownish above, becoming olive on the rump, while the underparts are whitish with faint streaking. Males can be distinguished by the black colouration that develops on the head and neck over the course of several annual moults. It used to be found on the islands of Fernandina and Isabela, but recent surveys have failed to record the species on Fernandina. It has been classified as critically endangered by BirdLife International, with an estimated population of between 60 and 140 located in two large mangroves on Isabela. A study has shown that the two small populations remaining on Isabela Island have begun undergoing speciation and that one or both populations will eventually become extinct due to a lack of interbreeding. As its name suggests, the Mangrove Finch lives in the mangroves of the Galápagos Islands and feeds upon the various insects, larvae, spiders, and vegetable matter found in the mangroves. It closely resembles the far commoner Woodpecker Finch, but is not known to utilize tools.

The Warbler Finch (Certhidea olivacea) is sometimes classified in the family Emberizidae, but more recent studies have shown it to belong in the tanager family. It is the only member of the genus Certhidea. This species has two distinct subspecies groups, sometimes recognised as separate species. These groups differ in appearance, distribution, habitat, and song. The Green Warbler Finch group consists of only one subspecies, the nominate olivacea, from Santiago, Rábida, Pinzón, Isabela, Fernandina, and Santa Cruz. Green Warbler Finches have a greenish coloration to blend into their lusher semi-humid forest habitats, as well as distinctive reddish throat patches on breeding males. The Grey Warbler Finch group consists of the subspecies fusca from Pinta and Marchena, becki from Darwin and Wolf, mentalis from Genovesa, bifasciata from Santa Fé, cenerascens from Española, luteola from San Cristóbal, and ridgwayi from Floreana. Grey Warbler Finches are found mostly in the shrub-land and dry forest of smaller drier islands, and have a suitable coloration for their habitat. Natural habitats are subtropical or tropical dry forests, subtropical or tropical moist montanes, and subtropical or tropical dry shrub-land.


The Cocos Island Finch or Cocos Finch, Pinaroloxias inornata , is the only one of Darwin's finches not native to the Galápagos Islands, and the only member of the genus Pinaroloxias. Sometimes classified in the family Emberizidae, more recent studies have shown it to belong in the tanager family Thraupidae. It is endemic to Cocos Island, which is approximately 360 miles south of Costa Rica, where it is the most common landbird. It is a chunky 12 cm long finch weighing about 12.5 grammes and with a black decurved pointed bill. The male is entirely black, while the female is brown, which is paler below and heavily streaked. The young are similar but have yellow bills. The roughly spherical nest is built at the end of a branch, and the standard clutch is two brown-spotted white eggs. The Cocos Island Finch is found in all available habitats and eats a wide range of plant and insect food. This species qualifies as Vulnerable because it has a very small range.

Tuesday 20 July 2010

Isabella and Fernadina

We sailed in to Tagus Bay past the most amazing volcanic caldera. Sea-horse shaped, Isabela is the largest and one of the youngest islands, located on the western edge of the archipelago, near the Galapagos hot spot. Approximately 1 million years old, the island was formed by the merger of 6 shield volcanoes - Alcedo, Cerro Azul, Darwin, Ecuador, Sierra Negra and Wolf. Five of the six volcanoes are still active (the exception is Ecuador) making it one of the most volcanically active places on earth, and two of lie directly on the equator - Ecuador and Volcán Wolf.

Volcán Wolf is the youngest of Isabela's volcanoes and at 5,600 feet - the highest point in the Galapagos. The relatively new lava fields and surrounding soils have very low nutrient levels so is quite bleak in terms of vegetation. Galapagos Penguins and Flightless Cormorants feed from the Cromwell Current upwelling off the west coast of Isabela. These endemic birds nest along the coast of Isabela and neighboring Fernandina. The Mangrove Finch, Galapagos Hawk, Brown Pelican, Pink Flamingo and Blue Heron are among the birds who make their home here too.


After breakfast we took a panga and had a ride along the cliffs of Tagus Bay, looking at old graffiti, tuff cone formations and Galapagos Penguins (Spheniscus mendiculus - is the only penguin to live on the equator and can survive due to the cool temperatures resulting from the Humboldt Current and cool waters from great depths brought up by the Cromwell Current) - 20 or so swimming and diving alongside us!



We also saw spotting Flightless Cormorants (Phalacrocorax harrisi - only found on Isabela and Fernandina, and one of the rarest birds in the world ... maybe only 900 left)


Then - amazing - we watched while a sea lion smashed an octopus against the sea surface, killing &/or softening it; then devouring it. All yards away from our panga and our open mouths!


After our panga trip, I then went deep-water snorkelling - seeing 24 plus green sea turtles (Chelonia mydas - on the IUCN red list), and with sea lions (Zalophus wollebaeki).

Back for lunch on the top deck as we sailed for Fernandina Island and Punta Espinoza.Due to its recent volcanic activity, the island does not present much plant life and has a mostly rocky surface. Punta Espinoza is a narrow stretch of land where there are literally hundreds of marine iguanas gathered in large groups on black lava rocks.



After seeing a Galapagos Hawk (Buteo galapagoensis - it takes young marine and land iguanas, and sea turtle and tortoise hatchlings as prey. This predator has also been spotted near nesting areas of Swallow-tailed Gulls, where it steals eggs as well as young) and more marine iguanas, turtles and flightless cormorants, we returned to the ship where we enjoyed a super sunset.