30th September & 1st October 2017
Set off - all excited - Manchester to Singapore with Singapore Airlines,
Got to the hotel at 10.00 am after a good flight but little sleep. Got into our room at 11:00 after a coffee and something to eat for Margaret. (John had a headache).
We had a short nap then we walked around the harbour. We did this in a light rain but luckily it wasn't tooo hot. We walked part of the GP circuit and went to to the Skypark. We had an early meal in the hotel and went to bed at 8pm!
2nd October
Up and had a breakfast by 09:00 and walked to the
Gardens By The Bay 
We thought it really well done and enjoyed the Flower Dome
but the Cloud Forest Dome was fantastic
Then we went to extraordinary shaped Science Museum
In the afternoon we walked to the Raffles Hotel (where we could have stayed but they were refurbishing it) - we had a drink - I had a
Singapore Sling
we watched a bloke preparing lots of them ....
Margaret had an orange juice and I opened two monkey nuts and threw the empty shells on the floor.
We got a taxi back to the hotel, had a meal at the hotel then watched the light & music show
Tuesday 3rd October
We slept badly. After breakfast we went on the Singapore Flyer - walked back via the The Shoppes, part of the Marina Bay Sands resort,
(which is how we got there), and bought some socks for me (I had not packed any!). After lunch we strolled around the Singapore Botanic Gardens (lunch was had there). We did the Fern Walk
and the National Orchid Garden (it rained!). We went to the airport at 6.30pm for our flight to Melbourne.
Wednesday 4th October (4th day away!).
Got to the hotel (Crown Metropol) straight from the flight and a room was ready for us. We went out for a coffee and a quick walk. Slept for a couple of hours. Up by 2pm local time and had a walk around but not 'wowed' with Melbourne so far ....We had our evening meal at Dinner By Heston
- nice experience but not the best food. Nice service: (met a nice girl ex London's Dinner By Heston).
We noticed from 8pm eight towers along the Southbank shot large gas fireballs into the night’s sky (courtesy of the casino!).
Thursday 5th October
Got picked up after breakfast by Peter of The Private Tour Guide https://youtu.be/5Oi2FqN6fHQ
It was a long day and guide was a chauvinistic bad driver but showed us some interesting sights. The ‘golfing’ kangaroos of Anglesea, as well as Wild Koalas. Plus the Surf Coast and Split Point Lighthouse where we had a coffee. The Memorial Archway to soldiers who built part of the road, as well as Lorne - Victoria’s most premier coastal resort town.
At Apollo Bay we flew with Vic Bongiorno of Apollo Bay Aviation
and viewed the Ship Wreck Coast, the 12 Apostles and Loch Ard Gorge.
That night we had a meal at Rosetta Ristorante.
Friday 6th October
We had breakfast on the 28th Floor and here is a composite photo of the hotel....
We then walked to the Botanical Gardens
Saw plenty of plants etc and a few birds (including these black swans)
and then walked over to the MCG and took a tour (one & a half hours! The Melbourne Cricket Ground (MCG), also known simply as "The G", is an Australian sports stadium located in Yarra Park. Home to the Melbourne Cricket Club it is the largest stadium in Australia & the Southern Hemisphere, as well as the largest cricket ground anywhere.
Since it was built in 1853, the MCG has been in a state of almost constant renewal. It served as the centre-piece stadium of the 956 Olympics and 2006 Commonwealth Games as well as 2 world Cups (1993 7 2015) - famous for its role in the development of international cricket being the venue for both the first Test match in 1877 and 1971 respectively. The annual Boxing Day Test is one of the MCG's most popular events.
Then we took a short tram ride back ... we ate at an Italian..
Saturday 7th October
Up early and breakfast in the room ...Plane from Melbourne to Cairns - 3.5 hours! Now only 9 hours ahead of UK. Hotel is Palm Cove Reef House - with had a nice room with it's own spa outside. Until we could check in we lazed on the very good beach.
Weather very hot and humid. There was a food fair in Palm Cove all along the front - that evening we ate in Portofino (not brilliant).
Margaret had a headache.
Sunday 8th October
Margaret still not feeling brilliant so I went to Daintree Rainforest by myself. I was the last to be picked up (it was still early) and we drove up Captain Cook Highway. It starts in the Cairns as Sheridan St, passing through the Cairn's northern beaches before reaching Port Douglas.
It then passes through Mossman on the Mossman-Daintree Rd. (it is now known as the Great Barrier Reef Drive, and is 140 km of beauty. The road winds between two world heritage icons that Tropical North Queensland is famous for: the Wet Tropics Rainforest and the Great Barrier Reef.
I was with Billy Tea Safaris - on their 4WD Bloomfield Track Tour. We drove up through sugar cane farmland (with specialist railway lins) which contrasted with the seascape especially as we approached the majestic Daintree River.
We ascended the Alexandra Range and had a panoramic view of World Heritage Tropical Rainforest merging with the azure colours of the Coral Sea.
We had a brief morning tea/coffee break and then cruised on the Daintree river cruise.
We spotted an Estuarine Crocodiles then drifted down a mangrove forest edge looking for wildlife, saw two small crocodiles, a Boyd's Dragon and a Frog Mouth bird plus Eclectus Parrots, Baby Crocodiles, and two types of python. W
e also did a walk through the Daintree Rainforest on a boardwalk with our amazing guides and learnt something about Aboriginal culture and rare flora & fauna.
We had a BBQ lunch and looked at recovering rescued Wallabies. Then we had a swim in the freshwater at the pristine Emmogen Creek.
We taste tasted some local tropical exotic fruits and enjoy a freshly brewed cup of traditional Billy Tea and a piece of Australian Damper (none brilliant!).
At Cape Tribulation Beach there is a stroll along the beach and boardwalk to the photographers' platform overlooking the mountains and coast where the 'Rainforest meets the Reef.
Time permitted us to make a quick stop for a locally home made exotic tropical fruit ice-cream then we crossed the Daintree River by cable ferry.
Then back to the hotel ...Margaret had done two walks locally, read a bit and had a coffee. She did some shopping. Later we had an Italian meal then watched a Hugh Laurie comedy.
Monday 9th October
Up early and had breakfast - then both of us swam in the sea. Then Margaret had a quick dip in the pool and we wrote postcards and had lunch in room (salami and biscuits). After lunch we had another dip in the sea and then had a spa bath. Later we had a meal in the hotel then walked along the front ... now quite quiet as the food fair had gone.
Tuesday 10th October
We had breakfast and then got dropped off at Cairns to fly to Brisbane. Took nearly two hours and after we checked in the the Royal On The Park we walked across the road and took in the Botanical Gardens
(had a cuppa and a snack there). Back to hotel for the air conditioning and had dinner in the hotel.
Wednesday 11th October
Up early and had a pleasant breakfast. Lady driver picked us up and was very pleasant - flight had a slight delay and we had to wait in Gladstone Airport for the coach to transfer us to the marina. With then had a 2 hour boat trip to Heron Island, After we were shone to the room we had dinner at 6:15pm. Lots of white capped Black Noddies in the surrounding trees.
Heron Island was used as a turtle cannery until 1923 and declared a National Park in 1943. The island now comprises of a 200-guest resort, and the Heron Island Research Station; one of the world’s finest coral reef research facilities.
The wreck of the HMAS Protector can be seen on the side of the boat channel. Purchased by the South Australian government in 1884, the warship saw service in the Boxer Rebellion and both World Wars before being taken to Heron Island to act as a breakwater in 1943, after a collision with a tug boat.
Heron Island is home to over 900 of the 1500 species of fish found on the Great Barrier Reef and over 70% of the coral species. It is famous for its coral gardens and underwater pinnacles.
Thursday 12th October Up early for breakfast then I had a refresher dive with Orla. Margaret came to the very salty pool to watch. I went out for dive on
Heron Bommie.... probably the best fish dive site in Australia. After lunch I dived
Plate Ledge. Then back and we had dinner...
Friday 13th October
Up early at 6.45am so we had breakfast early, then I dived
North Bommie. Margaret saw sharks in the shallow water around the jetty. After lunch (that seemed mostly cheese!); Margaret went on a bird walk and a swim. In th afternoon I dived
Tenements. We met up and then had dinner in a confused restaurant - who seemed uncertain about what 'meal plan' meant.
Saturday 14th October
Early breakfast - it was very wet (!) during the night and still raining in the morning (on and off). I set off to dive
Harry's Bommie. After a pleasant lunch (Margaret had a burger and I had hake) I dived
Plate Ledge again. We went briefly into the sea and then read and had dinner.
Sunday 15th October
Still wet and we had a bit of a lie in - getting up at 7.30am - had breakfast and used the laundry. Watched the catamaran leave at quarter to 10ish. Then we read and watched the noddies. After lunch I went snorkelling and then we watched the noddies' nest building! They love the wet Pisona leaves ...
AS Attenborough's highly-anticipated
Blue Planet II hits TV screens on Sunday, October 29, SARAH MARSHALL visits the world's largest coral reef system and finds out what's really going on with Australia's biggest tourist attraction. ""There's something universally irritating about noisy eaters, but below the surface of the ocean, dining etiquette doesn't really apply. Munching merrily on brittle stumps of branch coral, a shoal of rainbow-hued parrot fish is causing quite a commotion. A black-tip reef shark wriggles to the silent safety of a shadowy jetty, white-spotted eagle rays flap their wings to pick up speed and giant clams appear to purse their thick blue lips in a concertina of disgust. It's the restaurant's rush hour off the shores of Heron Island, a coral cay sprouting with dense
Pisonia forest and ringed by a brilliant white halo of sand, off the east coast of Australia at the southern end of the Great Barrier Reef. Yet, lifting my head out of the water to gasp air, I'm met with silence and calm. Teeming with wildlife and natural wonders, our oceans are a noisy place. And right now, they're crying out for help, a reality we're only just tuning into. Marine conservation is a central theme of BBC One's highly-anticipated Blue Planet II series, narrated by Sir David Attenborough, and the naturalist is urging us to protect an environment we know woefully little about. Earlier this year, Australia's Great Barrier Reef was the subject of controversy when scientists warned that more than 90 per cent of the planet's largest living organism might have been destroyed. Having narrowly escaped being listed by Unesco as a World Heritage Site in Danger, a recovery plan is now under way - both for the reef and its worldwide reputation. Sir David has been to Heron Island several times and describes it as one of the most magical places on earth. After his last visit, the 300-person resort was at full capacity. "We call that the Attenborough effect," says general manager Sandy McFeeters. Located 81km from Gladstone, Queensland, the island is reached by a two-and-a-half-hour boat journey or, as in my case, by a 20-minute seaplane ride, wading to shore in clear, warm water with luggage hoisted overhead. There's no phone coverage, no disturbance and no locking system on doors. At sunset, a burning ember fizzles below the horizon, singing the sky with charcoal streaks, and nightfall invites a starlit 40-minute circumnavigation. An important nesting site for loggerhead and green turtles, the peaceful island has a grim past as a turtle and mutton bird canning factory. Over the course of two summers, 128,000 cans of turtle soup were produced, but an alarming drop in numbers meant the business was no longer economically worthwhile. A resort opened in 1932, although any ecotourism was crude, and gasp-inducing photos from the 1950s show holidaymakers riding on the back of carapaces. Now the island, part of the Capricornia Cays National Park, is heavily protected. Of the 1,500 species of fish living on the Great Barrier Reef, 60 per cent can be found in the 21 dive sites at Heron island, says blond tousle-haired scuba and snorkel guide Rick. Passing the wreck of HMAS Protector, one of Australia's first naval vessels which will be declared a preservation site in 2018, we snorkel to Heron Bommie, a heaving tower of coral not far from the shore. (None of Heron's sites are more than a ten-minute boat ride away.) Two black-tip sharks (Rick's "pussy cats of the reef") relentlessly chase a whitetip around spiral-ridged brain coral, while a green turtle makes himself a comfortable bed on cushioned plates, blinking only a disgruntled eye as we free dive to observe him. Most corals on the Barrier Reef are hard, meaning the underwater scenery is a swirl of camouflage hues, rather than the bold neon brights associated with soft corals. "Besides, below five metres, you lose any colour," explains Rick. Even during winter (August) when I visit, the water is a pleasant 21C and the visibility is excellent. Cooler temperatures partially explain why coral has survived much better here than in northern reaches of the reef. Anything above 30C causes the organisms to expel their zooxanthellae algae, leaving behind a frail white skeleton, a phenomenon known as coral bleaching. Investigation into the effects of climate change is being carried out at the island's Research Centre, built in 1951 and partly funded by the University of Queensland. "The scientific community is divided," explains Education Officer Lauren Bailey. "Some researchers say it's too late and others are confident the reef will survive - it might just look a little different." Innovative projects in development at the centre include Professor Peter Harrison's plan to funnel spawning to affected reefs, and Professor Bernard Degnan's groundbreaking solution for controlling crown of thorns starfish (a potential threat to reefs) - by replicating a natural pheromone to lure them in. "We have to redress all these negative messages," stresses Lauren. "We can't give up hope."A similar outlook is shared by Peter Gash, manager of the eco-resort on Lady Elliot Island, at the southern tip of the reef. Mined for guano in the 1860s, the wind-whipped coral cay was left barren and desolate. Many years later, it opened as a resort and when Peter visited in 1979, a love affair began. Since taking over the lease in 2005, Peter has installed solar panels, cut fuel burn by 90% and replanted much of the original Casuarina forest, bringing back a cacophony of screeching bridled terns and white-capped noddies. "Not everyone is happy about that," he tells me. "But we make sure there are earplugs in every room." Although no spring chicken, Peter is a dynamo. On a guided tour of the resort's back room operations, I'm lost in a muddle of mathematics as he details engineering innovations with vigour. Swept away by his energy and enthusiasm, it's impossible not to smile. And he's obviously making a success; bookings for Lady Elliot need to be made at least six months in advance. Simple rooms curve around the fringes of the island, and drift snorkel sites have been clearly marked out. Like Heron, the underwater spectacles are outstanding, and all within easy reach. One afternoon, I spend several hours wallowing in a shallow lagoon, only accessible at high tide. "Look out for Buddy, our resident turtle," shouts resort manager Andreas Supper, from the restaurant decking. "He likes having his back scratched." Within 45 minutes, I've seen 14 turtles. Distracted by filling their stomachs, none are perplexed by my presence - although I don't receive any invitations for tummy tickling. The best time to explore is at dawn, Peter tells me, so I nervously agree to a 6.30am snorkel. As we walk across the island in semi-darkness, gloomy
Pandanus trees appear to be lifting their sinewy roots to join us and flitting bats are in a rush to reach home. Leaving the shadow of the beaming lighthouse behind us, we dive into another reality and Peter guides me on an underwater safari of his favourite sites. Polyps finishing their night's feed sway with the tide, sage loggerheads drift over ancient living columns and mantas glide elegantly with wind in their sails. We're the only two-legged land mammals out of their depth; down here it's a real democracy. As much as the sights are enticing, so too are the sounds. An undulating whine wends into my headpiece and I realise I'm listening to humpback whale song. Even though the migrating animals are probably a long distance away, their stirring voices are penetrating. Yet, there's nothing melancholic or mournful about their cry. Instead, it's graceful and uplifting, striking a chord with hope.""
Monday 16th October We left at 9:50 and the crossing to Gladstone was a bit rough but fine for me and Margaret coped ....We did not get the bus but walked into Gladstone. Had lunch at the Lightbox. Espresso + Wine Bar then caught the Brisbane flight & plane to Sydney. Oscar from Patagonia was our driver from the Airport to the hotel - the Shangri-La.
Tuesday 17th OctoberWalked about Sydney until we had lunch in the Sydney Tower.
Margaret had soup as a starter but I cannot remember anything else.... Afterwards we walked back and then got the open top bus to Bondi Beach. That night we went to a very busy Glenmore Hotel (pub) for dinner.
Wednesday 18th OctoberAfter breakfast we took an open-topped bus to the Barracks Museum and saw the convicts' story (J McKenzie - got life T25). After this (which was very good) we took a taxi to the Opera House
to see 'Two Weddings, One Bride' an operetta; that we both enjoyed hugely - funny & brilliant! We ate at The Aria Restaurant.
Thursday 19th October After breakfast we walked to the circular quay to get a ferry to Manly Wharf. (Manly is bounded by the sea on three sides). There we had coffee and bought some stuff for the girls. Then we walked to the beach and then on to Marine Parade. We had lunch at Criniti's. Then we went back on the ferry (excellent trip!) and we then had a meal on the waterfront at 'Rossini at the Quay'
Friday 20th October Woke to rain (expected!) and stayed at the hotel until about 11:45 and then went to meet Fred & Rosemary at The Heritage
Both are well and we had a good time catching up etc. as well as lunch. It rained all day. We ate at the Glenmore again at about 6:30pm - which was still busy with a lot of youngsters.
Saturday 21st October I woke up with a headache but after tablets soon got better. We went to a small wildlife park then to the Aquatic Centre, which we enjoyed. Then we watched dragon boats racing on the water.
Got to the hotel at 10.00 am after a good flight but little sleep. Got into our room at 11:00 after a coffee and something to eat for Margaret. (John had a headache).
We had a short nap then we walked around the harbour. We did this in a light rain but luckily it wasn't tooo hot. We walked part of the GP circuit and went to to the Skypark. We had an early meal in the hotel and went to bed at 8pm!
2nd October
Up and had a breakfast by 09:00 and walked to the Gardens By The Bay 
We thought it really well done and enjoyed the Flower Dome
but the Cloud Forest Dome was fantastic
Then we went to extraordinary shaped Science Museum 
In the afternoon we walked to the Raffles Hotel (where we could have stayed but they were refurbishing it) - we had a drink - I had a Singapore Sling
we watched a bloke preparing lots of them ....
Margaret had an orange juice and I opened two monkey nuts and threw the empty shells on the floor.
We got a taxi back to the hotel, had a meal at the hotel then watched the light & music show
Tuesday 3rd October
We slept badly. After breakfast we went on the Singapore Flyer - walked back via the The Shoppes, part of the Marina Bay Sands resort,
(which is how we got there), and bought some socks for me (I had not packed any!). After lunch we strolled around the Singapore Botanic Gardens (lunch was had there). We did the Fern Walk
and the National Orchid Garden (it rained!). We went to the airport at 6.30pm for our flight to Melbourne.
Wednesday 4th October (4th day away!).
Got to the hotel (Crown Metropol) straight from the flight and a room was ready for us. We went out for a coffee and a quick walk. Slept for a couple of hours. Up by 2pm local time and had a walk around but not 'wowed' with Melbourne so far ....We had our evening meal at Dinner By Heston
- nice experience but not the best food. Nice service: (met a nice girl ex London's Dinner By Heston).
We noticed from 8pm eight towers along the Southbank shot large gas fireballs into the night’s sky (courtesy of the casino!).
Thursday 5th October
Got picked up after breakfast by Peter of The Private Tour Guide https://youtu.be/5Oi2FqN6fHQ
It was a long day and guide was a chauvinistic bad driver but showed us some interesting sights. The ‘golfing’ kangaroos of Anglesea, as well as Wild Koalas. Plus the Surf Coast and Split Point Lighthouse where we had a coffee. The Memorial Archway to soldiers who built part of the road, as well as Lorne - Victoria’s most premier coastal resort town.
At Apollo Bay we flew with Vic Bongiorno of Apollo Bay Aviation
and viewed the Ship Wreck Coast, the 12 Apostles and Loch Ard Gorge.
That night we had a meal at Rosetta Ristorante. 
Friday 6th October
We had breakfast on the 28th Floor and here is a composite photo of the hotel....
We then walked to the Botanical Gardens
Saw plenty of plants etc and a few birds (including these black swans)
and then walked over to the MCG and took a tour (one & a half hours! The Melbourne Cricket Ground (MCG), also known simply as "The G", is an Australian sports stadium located in Yarra Park. Home to the Melbourne Cricket Club it is the largest stadium in Australia & the Southern Hemisphere, as well as the largest cricket ground anywhere.
Since it was built in 1853, the MCG has been in a state of almost constant renewal. It served as the centre-piece stadium of the 956 Olympics and 2006 Commonwealth Games as well as 2 world Cups (1993 7 2015) - famous for its role in the development of international cricket being the venue for both the first Test match in 1877 and 1971 respectively. The annual Boxing Day Test is one of the MCG's most popular events.
Then we took a short tram ride back ... we ate at an Italian..
Saturday 7th October
Up early and breakfast in the room ...Plane from Melbourne to Cairns - 3.5 hours! Now only 9 hours ahead of UK. Hotel is Palm Cove Reef House - with had a nice room with it's own spa outside. Until we could check in we lazed on the very good beach.
Weather very hot and humid. There was a food fair in Palm Cove all along the front - that evening we ate in Portofino (not brilliant).
Margaret had a headache.
Sunday 8th October
Margaret still not feeling brilliant so I went to Daintree Rainforest by myself. I was the last to be picked up (it was still early) and we drove up Captain Cook Highway. It starts in the Cairns as Sheridan St, passing through the Cairn's northern beaches before reaching Port Douglas.
It then passes through Mossman on the Mossman-Daintree Rd. (it is now known as the Great Barrier Reef Drive, and is 140 km of beauty. The road winds between two world heritage icons that Tropical North Queensland is famous for: the Wet Tropics Rainforest and the Great Barrier Reef.
I was with Billy Tea Safaris - on their 4WD Bloomfield Track Tour. We drove up through sugar cane farmland (with specialist railway lins) which contrasted with the seascape especially as we approached the majestic Daintree River.
We ascended the Alexandra Range and had a panoramic view of World Heritage Tropical Rainforest merging with the azure colours of the Coral Sea.
We had a brief morning tea/coffee break and then cruised on the Daintree river cruise.
We spotted an Estuarine Crocodiles then drifted down a mangrove forest edge looking for wildlife, saw two small crocodiles, a Boyd's Dragon and a Frog Mouth bird plus Eclectus Parrots, Baby Crocodiles, and two types of python. W
e also did a walk through the Daintree Rainforest on a boardwalk with our amazing guides and learnt something about Aboriginal culture and rare flora & fauna.
We had a BBQ lunch and looked at recovering rescued Wallabies. Then we had a swim in the freshwater at the pristine Emmogen Creek.
We taste tasted some local tropical exotic fruits and enjoy a freshly brewed cup of traditional Billy Tea and a piece of Australian Damper (none brilliant!).
At Cape Tribulation Beach there is a stroll along the beach and boardwalk to the photographers' platform overlooking the mountains and coast where the 'Rainforest meets the Reef.
Time permitted us to make a quick stop for a locally home made exotic tropical fruit ice-cream then we crossed the Daintree River by cable ferry.
Then back to the hotel ...Margaret had done two walks locally, read a bit and had a coffee. She did some shopping. Later we had an Italian meal then watched a Hugh Laurie comedy.
Monday 9th October
Up early and had breakfast - then both of us swam in the sea. Then Margaret had a quick dip in the pool and we wrote postcards and had lunch in room (salami and biscuits). After lunch we had another dip in the sea and then had a spa bath. Later we had a meal in the hotel then walked along the front ... now quite quiet as the food fair had gone.
Tuesday 10th October
We had breakfast and then got dropped off at Cairns to fly to Brisbane. Took nearly two hours and after we checked in the the Royal On The Park we walked across the road and took in the Botanical Gardens
(had a cuppa and a snack there). Back to hotel for the air conditioning and had dinner in the hotel.
Wednesday 11th October
Up early and had a pleasant breakfast. Lady driver picked us up and was very pleasant - flight had a slight delay and we had to wait in Gladstone Airport for the coach to transfer us to the marina. With then had a 2 hour boat trip to Heron Island, After we were shone to the room we had dinner at 6:15pm. Lots of white capped Black Noddies in the surrounding trees.
Heron Island was used as a turtle cannery until 1923 and declared a National Park in 1943. The island now comprises of a 200-guest resort, and the Heron Island Research Station; one of the world’s finest coral reef research facilities.
The wreck of the HMAS Protector can be seen on the side of the boat channel. Purchased by the South Australian government in 1884, the warship saw service in the Boxer Rebellion and both World Wars before being taken to Heron Island to act as a breakwater in 1943, after a collision with a tug boat.
Heron Island is home to over 900 of the 1500 species of fish found on the Great Barrier Reef and over 70% of the coral species. It is famous for its coral gardens and underwater pinnacles.
Thursday 12th October Up early for breakfast then I had a refresher dive with Orla. Margaret came to the very salty pool to watch. I went out for dive on Heron Bommie.... probably the best fish dive site in Australia. After lunch I dived Plate Ledge. Then back and we had dinner...
Friday 13th October
Up early at 6.45am so we had breakfast early, then I dived North Bommie. Margaret saw sharks in the shallow water around the jetty. After lunch (that seemed mostly cheese!); Margaret went on a bird walk and a swim. In th afternoon I dived Tenements. We met up and then had dinner in a confused restaurant - who seemed uncertain about what 'meal plan' meant.
Saturday 14th October
Early breakfast - it was very wet (!) during the night and still raining in the morning (on and off). I set off to dive Harry's Bommie. After a pleasant lunch (Margaret had a burger and I had hake) I dived Plate Ledge again. We went briefly into the sea and then read and had dinner.
Sunday 15th October
Still wet and we had a bit of a lie in - getting up at 7.30am - had breakfast and used the laundry. Watched the catamaran leave at quarter to 10ish. Then we read and watched the noddies. After lunch I went snorkelling and then we watched the noddies' nest building! They love the wet Pisona leaves ...
AS Attenborough's highly-anticipated Blue Planet II hits TV screens on Sunday, October 29, SARAH MARSHALL visits the world's largest coral reef system and finds out what's really going on with Australia's biggest tourist attraction. ""There's something universally irritating about noisy eaters, but below the surface of the ocean, dining etiquette doesn't really apply. Munching merrily on brittle stumps of branch coral, a shoal of rainbow-hued parrot fish is causing quite a commotion. A black-tip reef shark wriggles to the silent safety of a shadowy jetty, white-spotted eagle rays flap their wings to pick up speed and giant clams appear to purse their thick blue lips in a concertina of disgust. It's the restaurant's rush hour off the shores of Heron Island, a coral cay sprouting with dense Pisonia forest and ringed by a brilliant white halo of sand, off the east coast of Australia at the southern end of the Great Barrier Reef. Yet, lifting my head out of the water to gasp air, I'm met with silence and calm. Teeming with wildlife and natural wonders, our oceans are a noisy place. And right now, they're crying out for help, a reality we're only just tuning into. Marine conservation is a central theme of BBC One's highly-anticipated Blue Planet II series, narrated by Sir David Attenborough, and the naturalist is urging us to protect an environment we know woefully little about. Earlier this year, Australia's Great Barrier Reef was the subject of controversy when scientists warned that more than 90 per cent of the planet's largest living organism might have been destroyed. Having narrowly escaped being listed by Unesco as a World Heritage Site in Danger, a recovery plan is now under way - both for the reef and its worldwide reputation. Sir David has been to Heron Island several times and describes it as one of the most magical places on earth. After his last visit, the 300-person resort was at full capacity. "We call that the Attenborough effect," says general manager Sandy McFeeters. Located 81km from Gladstone, Queensland, the island is reached by a two-and-a-half-hour boat journey or, as in my case, by a 20-minute seaplane ride, wading to shore in clear, warm water with luggage hoisted overhead. There's no phone coverage, no disturbance and no locking system on doors. At sunset, a burning ember fizzles below the horizon, singing the sky with charcoal streaks, and nightfall invites a starlit 40-minute circumnavigation. An important nesting site for loggerhead and green turtles, the peaceful island has a grim past as a turtle and mutton bird canning factory. Over the course of two summers, 128,000 cans of turtle soup were produced, but an alarming drop in numbers meant the business was no longer economically worthwhile. A resort opened in 1932, although any ecotourism was crude, and gasp-inducing photos from the 1950s show holidaymakers riding on the back of carapaces. Now the island, part of the Capricornia Cays National Park, is heavily protected. Of the 1,500 species of fish living on the Great Barrier Reef, 60 per cent can be found in the 21 dive sites at Heron island, says blond tousle-haired scuba and snorkel guide Rick. Passing the wreck of HMAS Protector, one of Australia's first naval vessels which will be declared a preservation site in 2018, we snorkel to Heron Bommie, a heaving tower of coral not far from the shore. (None of Heron's sites are more than a ten-minute boat ride away.) Two black-tip sharks (Rick's "pussy cats of the reef") relentlessly chase a whitetip around spiral-ridged brain coral, while a green turtle makes himself a comfortable bed on cushioned plates, blinking only a disgruntled eye as we free dive to observe him. Most corals on the Barrier Reef are hard, meaning the underwater scenery is a swirl of camouflage hues, rather than the bold neon brights associated with soft corals. "Besides, below five metres, you lose any colour," explains Rick. Even during winter (August) when I visit, the water is a pleasant 21C and the visibility is excellent. Cooler temperatures partially explain why coral has survived much better here than in northern reaches of the reef. Anything above 30C causes the organisms to expel their zooxanthellae algae, leaving behind a frail white skeleton, a phenomenon known as coral bleaching. Investigation into the effects of climate change is being carried out at the island's Research Centre, built in 1951 and partly funded by the University of Queensland. "The scientific community is divided," explains Education Officer Lauren Bailey. "Some researchers say it's too late and others are confident the reef will survive - it might just look a little different." Innovative projects in development at the centre include Professor Peter Harrison's plan to funnel spawning to affected reefs, and Professor Bernard Degnan's groundbreaking solution for controlling crown of thorns starfish (a potential threat to reefs) - by replicating a natural pheromone to lure them in. "We have to redress all these negative messages," stresses Lauren. "We can't give up hope."A similar outlook is shared by Peter Gash, manager of the eco-resort on Lady Elliot Island, at the southern tip of the reef. Mined for guano in the 1860s, the wind-whipped coral cay was left barren and desolate. Many years later, it opened as a resort and when Peter visited in 1979, a love affair began. Since taking over the lease in 2005, Peter has installed solar panels, cut fuel burn by 90% and replanted much of the original Casuarina forest, bringing back a cacophony of screeching bridled terns and white-capped noddies. "Not everyone is happy about that," he tells me. "But we make sure there are earplugs in every room." Although no spring chicken, Peter is a dynamo. On a guided tour of the resort's back room operations, I'm lost in a muddle of mathematics as he details engineering innovations with vigour. Swept away by his energy and enthusiasm, it's impossible not to smile. And he's obviously making a success; bookings for Lady Elliot need to be made at least six months in advance. Simple rooms curve around the fringes of the island, and drift snorkel sites have been clearly marked out. Like Heron, the underwater spectacles are outstanding, and all within easy reach. One afternoon, I spend several hours wallowing in a shallow lagoon, only accessible at high tide. "Look out for Buddy, our resident turtle," shouts resort manager Andreas Supper, from the restaurant decking. "He likes having his back scratched." Within 45 minutes, I've seen 14 turtles. Distracted by filling their stomachs, none are perplexed by my presence - although I don't receive any invitations for tummy tickling. The best time to explore is at dawn, Peter tells me, so I nervously agree to a 6.30am snorkel. As we walk across the island in semi-darkness, gloomy Pandanus trees appear to be lifting their sinewy roots to join us and flitting bats are in a rush to reach home. Leaving the shadow of the beaming lighthouse behind us, we dive into another reality and Peter guides me on an underwater safari of his favourite sites. Polyps finishing their night's feed sway with the tide, sage loggerheads drift over ancient living columns and mantas glide elegantly with wind in their sails. We're the only two-legged land mammals out of their depth; down here it's a real democracy. As much as the sights are enticing, so too are the sounds. An undulating whine wends into my headpiece and I realise I'm listening to humpback whale song. Even though the migrating animals are probably a long distance away, their stirring voices are penetrating. Yet, there's nothing melancholic or mournful about their cry. Instead, it's graceful and uplifting, striking a chord with hope.""
Monday 16th October We left at 9:50 and the crossing to Gladstone was a bit rough but fine for me and Margaret coped ....We did not get the bus but walked into Gladstone. Had lunch at the Lightbox. Espresso + Wine Bar then caught the Brisbane flight & plane to Sydney. Oscar from Patagonia was our driver from the Airport to the hotel - the Shangri-La.
Tuesday 17th OctoberWalked about Sydney until we had lunch in the Sydney Tower.
Margaret had soup as a starter but I cannot remember anything else.... Afterwards we walked back and then got the open top bus to Bondi Beach. That night we went to a very busy Glenmore Hotel (pub) for dinner.
Wednesday 18th OctoberAfter breakfast we took an open-topped bus to the Barracks Museum and saw the convicts' story (J McKenzie - got life T25). After this (which was very good) we took a taxi to the Opera House
to see 'Two Weddings, One Bride' an operetta; that we both enjoyed hugely - funny & brilliant! We ate at The Aria Restaurant.
Thursday 19th October After breakfast we walked to the circular quay to get a ferry to Manly Wharf. (Manly is bounded by the sea on three sides). There we had coffee and bought some stuff for the girls. Then we walked to the beach and then on to Marine Parade. We had lunch at Criniti's. Then we went back on the ferry (excellent trip!) and we then had a meal on the waterfront at 'Rossini at the Quay'
Friday 20th October Woke to rain (expected!) and stayed at the hotel until about 11:45 and then went to meet Fred & Rosemary at The Heritage 
Both are well and we had a good time catching up etc. as well as lunch. It rained all day. We ate at the Glenmore again at about 6:30pm - which was still busy with a lot of youngsters.
Saturday 21st October I woke up with a headache but after tablets soon got better. We went to a small wildlife park then to the Aquatic Centre, which we enjoyed. Then we watched dragon boats racing on the water.
