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Friday 10 February 2017

All Earth Day 22nd April 2010

Up early for a quick orange juice / coffee before boarding a panga* heading off at 6.30 am on Floreana. Wet landing onto a green olivine crystalline beach - brownish with flashes of the green mineral crystals embedded in it. A Central American term, "Panga" was used historically for any small boat other than dugout canoes, (RIBs - rigid inflatable boats, as we would know them), are the work-horses of the ship and are capable of speeds in excess of 35 knots! We then walked inland, (not far), to a brackish mangrove lake,called Punta Cormorant, resplendent with flamingos, (Phoenicopterus ruber)!


There are only an estimated 50 or 60 breeding pairs birds left as the introduction of feral pigs into Galapagos had a devastating affect on their nests and eggs. Flamingos filter-feed on brine shrimp and blue-green algae. Their oddly shaped beaks are specially adapted to separate mud and silt from the food they eat, and are uniquely used upside-down. The filtering of food items is assisted by hairy structures called lamellae which line the mandibles, and the large rough-surfaced tongue. The pink or reddish color of flamingos comes from carotenoid proteins in their diet of animal and plant plankton.

We then walked over a rise to a white fine-sandy beach, and saw female green-sea turtle tracks, from their egg laying exploits! Tidal area full of Sally Light Foot crabs and in the surf we saw outlines of rays (probably stingrays).

In the afternoon Margaret stayed aboard,reading on the top deck whilst I went for a trip on the glass-bottomed boat ... (to save more sun on the back of my legs!). Then at around 5pm we made a wet landing at Post Office Bay ... the proverbial post box was there ... plus little pieces of rock and wood left with messages ... In the barrel that acts as the Post Box, are letters and postcards left there in the hope someone looking through them lives close enough to the addressee to hand deliver the missive. The Post Office Box was used in the old days by whalers and others to stay in touch with home. Leaving the letters behind in the wooden barrel, other sailors returning home took it with them. Nowadays tourists keep up the tradition. A few got doled out by our crew, though Margaret & I drew a blank when it came to addresses in the North! We left a card for Alison & Peter ... so who knows? On the trip back by panga we saw turtles swimming and dolphins leaping - a lovely end to the day.

Onto The Galapagos ... Archipiélago de Colón

First sight of the Galapagos was Daphne Minor. Landed at Baltra island and, after all the administration, soon boarded the boat via a Panga (a RIB - something we would become expert at doing!). On board the Isabella II for our first afternoon, after reviewing safety rules etc. and a run-down on the boat by the Purser (and lunch of course) ... then we visited North Seymour Island - a dry landing from the panga and saw magnificent frigate birds (they were magnificent but Fregata magnificens is their name ... also known as Man O'War birds), blue-footed boobies (Sula nebouxii), swallow tailed gulls (Creagrus furcatus), sea lions (Zalophus wollebaeki). Note: the Galapagos fur seal (Arctocephalus galapagoensis) we came across later; marine iguanas (Amblyrhynchus cristatus).

That evening, before dinner, Socrates, the expedition leader and naturalist, gave an introductory talk on the Islands, and spoke of tomorrow's (21st April) visits to Espanola (Hood) island. Then we had dinner with Nina & John and Beryl & Roger. We had met, by then, the rest of our companions along for the expedition - Angela & Reg from Yorkshire, Marian & Willem from Eindhoven, two Japanese Honeymooners from Tokyo and a couple - Linda & David from San Francisco and Portland,+ Mark, a Canadian out of Toronto, travelling on his own.


This is the itinerary (Tuesday to Tuesday):

Tuesday: Baltra & North Seymour
Wednesday: Hood Island - Gardner Bay & Punta Suarez
Thursday: Floreana - Punta Cormoran & Post Office Bay
Friday: Santa Cruz - Darwin Station & Highlands
Saturday: Tower - Darwin Bay & Prince Phillip's Steps
Sunday: Isabela - Tagus Cove & Fernandina - Punta Espinosa
Monday: James & Bartolome
Tuesday: Baltra

... and the boat

M/V Isabella II
* Construction: 1979
* Reconstruction: Pensacola, Florida, 1988
* Refurbishment: Panama, March 2000
* Category: Deluxe
* Gross Tonnage: 1.025 tons.
* Type of Vessel: Motor Yacht
* Capacity: 40 guests
* Length: 53.72 meters (166 feet)
* Beam: 11.58 meters (38 feet)
* Speed: 10 knots
* Electricity: 110 Volts 60 Hz.
* Engines: 2 GM Detroit Diesel 900 BHP each
* Navigation Equipment: Gyro-compass, Automatic Pilot, radar, and GPS
* Safety Certificates: SOLAS 74 - ISM
* Fire Detector: Automatic with control from the bridge.
* Life Jackets: In each cabin
* Lifeboats: 2 units semi enclosed
* Landing Craft: 3 Zodiacs + glass bottom boat
* Owner: ETICA / Metropolitan Touring
* Decks: 3 (Sun deck, Cabin deck, Main deck)
* Crew: 24
* Naturalists: 3
* Medical Officer: Permanently on board

Tower Genovesa island - 24th April 2010

Genovesa Island lies to the northwest of the Galapagos archipelago ... it's a shield volcano - (shallow-sloping sides formed from fluid lava flows that can travel long distances across slight inclines, resulting in their relatively flat, broad profile). Close to being my favourite island ... and what a sight! The island itself is about 5 square miles height, around 200 feet high, with a volcanic caldera whose walls has collapsed, forming the beautiful Darwin Bay, all surrounded by cliffs in a horse-shoe shape. The picture above was borrowed from Wiki ... This place is also known as Bird Island because of the large and varied bird colonies which nest here. There are huge numbers of Frigate birds, Nazca Boobies, Swallow-tailed Gulls, Storm Petrels, Tropic-birds, Darwin's finches, and Galápagos Mockingbirds and was the only place we saw Red-footed Boobies....lots of them!

What did we do? Well, after our overnight passage (across the Equator!) we breakfasted and then had a wet landing, onto the white coral sands of Darwin Bay, where there were just thousands of birds bustling with activity - breeding, raising chicks, courting ... fabulous. Great Frigate birds, Yellow-crowned and Lava herons, and as we moved along a set of sheltered pools, Swallow-tailed Gulls, (the only nocturnal gulls in the world), supplemented by Red–billed tropic birds, that come and go from their nests, trailing long extravagant kite-like tails. The Red-footed Boobies were grasping with their webbed feet, (impressive), the branches of the scrubby bushes (and often palo santo trees, Bursera graveolens - the incense tree) they nested in ...

I went deep water snorkelling along the cliff edge inside the bay whilst Margaret had a swim from the beach with Nina and Mark. After an Ecuadorian lunch on board [potato soup, avocado & cheese prawns, suckling pig, beef, chicken, figs in syrup, cookies with fudge in them!] and then a lecture on the geology of the Galapagos, we chilled out until late afternoon/early evening (some people even had a nap!). We wanted the heat of the sun to pass for our next trip - and also to be close to the end of the day. Margaret took a personalised panga tour along the cliffs of the bay with Nina. The rest of us, at around 5.30 pm, headed across the bay for a dry landing at the foot of 'Prince Phillip’s Steps', named after his visit in 1964. The 80 foot, or so, stairway leads to a narrow stretch of land that opens out onto the plateau surrounding Darwin Bay, and extends to form the north-eastern side of the island.

Here we saw Red-footed boobies, again wrapping their webbed feet around branches to perch in the bushes, and, as if in contrast, their Nazca Booby relatives occupying the scrubby rocks beyond. Crossing this sparse vegetation, we came to a broad lava field that extends towards the sea where Storm Petrels flutter out to sea for food, returning to nest in the crevices and cracks in the lava field. Here we watched - transfixed - as a short-eared owl hunted, low and often landing and hiding , in the lava field. The storm petrels have a different life style here, from any of the kind elsewhere in the world, as they are active in the daytime. They timed their return to the nest as dusk is due to try to avoid the owl ... but as we witnessed ... to no avail in some cases! Then it was back to the ship, and down the steps ... heading for dinner and more of the BBC series 'Galapagos' ... and reflect on a great day.

Thursday 2 February 2017

Edinburgh 28th to 31st January 2017

Sat 29th January

To Edinburgh via York



We caught the train from Ilkley at 07:10 and got to Waverly at about 11.15 and I promptly got us lost trying to leave using the wrong exit. We got an unnecessary taxi to the hotel – the Principal George Street. Booked in early in a pleasant room and went to Cafe Andaluz for lunch.



Lunch at Cafe Andaluz - a tapas place



Then we bought a Bus Tour ticket and went to Leith to tour the Royal Yacht Britannia – enjoyed it. We got the bus back to hotel – changed and then went to Martin Wishart’s by taxi for dinner. We were a little early so walked around the dock before going on and having the tasting menus – I have the Fish one and Margaret had the Vegetarian one.



Royal Yacht Britannia



Dinner at Martin Wishart's


After a prosecco I had the FISH TASTING MENU

Marinated Sea Bream
Carelian Nordic Caviar, kohlrabi, fine herbs banarois & bergamot

Orkney Scallop and Black Truffle
Jerusalem artichoke, sweet potato and hazlenut

Warm Smoked Salmon
Parsnip, verjus and smoked butter

Turbot
Quinoa, Basil pesto, black garlic, parmesan & crispy pancetta

Dulcey Choclate Cremeux
Praline, passion fruit sorbet, dehydrated chocolate mousse,
clementine juice

Lemon Cremeux
Yuzu, crème fraîche, lime sorbet, honeycomb, lemongrass

All washed down with a Montrachet.


Margaret had the VEGETARIAN TASTING MENU

Salt Baked Golden Beetroot
Black truffle, Burrata & oyster leaf, Castel di Lego olive oil

Salt Baked Golden Beetroot
Black truffle, Burrata & oyster leaf, Castel di Lego olive oil

Snow Peas
Pecorino, mint, walnuts & pickled winter squash

Emmental Soufflé
Creamed Swiss chard

Tortelloni
Celery root, black truffle & Lord of the Hundred

Snow Peas
Pecorino, mint, walnuts & pickled winter squash

Dulcey Choclate Cremeux
Praline, passion fruit sorbet, dehydrated chocolate mousse,
clementine juice

Lemon Cremeux
Yuzu, crème fraîche, lime sorbet, honeycomb, lemongrass


30th January

Royal Botanic Gardens and Palm Houses



On Sunday we went to the Royal Botanic Gardens and toured the glasshouses as well as the gardens. For lunch we went to Stockbridge and looked for Nok's Kitchen – asked and was told it was close – well, it was we were on the road and didn’t see the road sign! After lunch we walked back via the Scottish National Portrait Gallery, which we enjoyed (there was a tribute on to Robbie Burns!). That night we due for Sunday dinner at the Gardeners Cottage but Margaret did not fancy it so I cancelled and we ate in hotel (away from everyone!).



Lunch at Noks Stockbridge



Portrait



and National Art Galleries



Dinner at 'the Printing Press'



31st January





On Monday we caught the bus to complete the tour – and went to the Scottish Parliament (unruly kids there!) and a lightning tour of the Palace of Holyroodhouse (which I found depressing and uninteresting). The bus journey let us see Arthur's Seat (thank God we didn’t plan on climbing it!) as well as the Royal Mile & Princes Street Gardens.
For lunch we went to the excellent pub - the Scran & Scallie in Stockbridge. Afterwards we walked up to Edinburgh Castle then we went to the National Gallery / Royal Scottish Academy (saw their Singer Sargent - Lady Agnew of Lochnaw). That night we got a taxi for dinner – at a well respected Italian - Locanda de Gusti for 18:30.







1st February

Shopping and home