Saturday 16th - A long but rewarding day - the 'crux' of the trek through this seldom visited wilderness of Jordan. After retracing our steps for a short while, the trail cuts up into the mountains again, passing the ruins of an Edomite village from where the views back down to Wadi Araba are spectacular. As the trail contours across the mountainside, it ascends to a small col and then descends to some dry wadis, with fabulous views appearing as each corner is turned. In the remoter, middle section the trail is less distinct and mountain goats might be a little better at this than us trekkers - there is some necessary scrambling involved. Then we ascended (steadily!) up the final col and headed for camp for the night. That was better for being over - 9 hours or so and approximately 15 plus kilometres! Never has a Bedouin-style camp been so welcomed! (At a location called Ishkart Msaid).
Sunday 17th Al Beida or Little Petra is quite close to a small Neolithic site - not far from Little Petra - about 10 kilometres. The site is of much interest to archaeologists as it has revealed many finds from 6 different levels, each representing a separate period of history. The few visible remains consist of the vestiges of walls and stone querns. It dates from the Neolithic period - some 8,500 years ago. This is probably one of the oldest sights in the Middle East - showing evidence of habitation by a Pre-Pottery population, who were herders perhaps experimenting with agriculture.
Little Petra or el Beidha
The entrance to Little Petra is, appropriately enough, through a small siq (a natural geological fault produced by tectonic forces and worn smooth by water erosio ), this 'miniature version' of Petra contains a number of notable tombs, well preserved in some cases.
Tombs had a door, and internal shelving to hold the dead.
Most of the large tombs contained a small dining hall or meeting hall (majlis).
Most had benches or seats inside as well as a basin, for running water, fed by cisterns.
One of the tombs still had the remnants (now restored) of a fresco painted on the wall/ceiling!
After an overnight stay in a fixed camp - the Ammarine camp - a Bedouin camp, surrounded by beautiful mountains and a clear night so stars above. Hot showers too, and a traditional Zarb chicken dinner is offered. The Bedouins at the camp are very friendly people, and we listened to an old Bedouin, singing to the accompaniment of his one string "guitar" or violin (awful to Western ears!).
Ulm Fruth natural arch Wadi Rum
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