Well, we are back from our South American trip, primarily aimed at exploring The Galápagos Islands or more properly called - but with less drama and meaning - by its official name 'Archipiélago de Colón.' Eyjafjallajökull volcano had a fair impact here - mainly because travellers - due out after us - couldn't make their flights … so we enjoyed less than normal densities of tourists!
The volcanic eruption caused quite a few problems - see http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/sci/tech/8630893.stm and http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air_travel_disruption_after_the_2010_Eyjafjallajökull_eruption
First though, a few words in praise of Cusco and The Sacred Valley of the Incas as well as Macchu Piccu. The latter seems to be spelt a number of ways - for example an alternative I have seen is Machu Picchu; though in the local older language (Quecha or Qurchua) it was called Machu Pikchu - meaning "Old Mountain". Oddly enough, whichever spelling you use it the Spanish written version of the word as the Andean culture giving rise to the language never had a written format - relying rather on quipus or khipus the so called 'talking knots'.
Cusco, (in Qurchua it’s written as 'Qusqu'), we loved - a beautiful setting, high in the Andes (3,400 metres or 11,200 feet), with about 350,000 inhabitants, spread through the Huatanay river valley. Green hills surround the city and the Andes beyond provide a stunning backcloth.
We were lucky enough to be shown around the area by a charming and very knowledgeable guide called Hilda Jimenez.
Our first exploration of the area was Sacsayhuaman or Saksaq Waman. This is an impressive site, up at an altitude of 3,700 metres, (about 12,000 feet), apparently built by the Killke people, in 1100 AD, though Incas later conquered these people and expanded the place around 1200 AD. The site was either a fortified defensive position or a meeting place … perhaps a combination of all of these things … or even some sacred site - apparently it is laid out in the shape of a puma’s head, but it seems a mystery – as is the exact way in which the walls were made. All the walls are truly impressive - so closely fitted that nothing will fit in the dry joints. The corners of the massive stones are rounded and the stones interlock whilst also leaning regularly sloped – inward – apparently to be resistant to earthquakes. The largest stones seem to be of the order of 100 to 200 tonnes (!) and the size of the walls around 15 to 20 feet tall. Truly awe-inspiring.
Then we were fortunate enough to be shown around and have explained the extraordinary Temple of the Sun or Templo del Sol at Koricancha - the most amazing temple of the Incas - and an astronomical observatory to boot. It was dedicated to the Sun, (the most important deity in the Inca's religion). Koricancha means "courtyard of gold" in Quechua and reputedly there were gold panels lining its walls, gold figures and gold altars ... plus a massive golden sun disc which mirrored or reflected the sun's rays, bathing the temple in sunlight.
During the summer solstice, the sun still shines directly into a niche where only the Inca was permitted to sit.
After the Spanish had looted the temple and emptied it of gold, the exquisite polished walls were used as the foundations of the Dominican Convent of Santo Domingo, forming a jarring clash of colonial architectural statement of oppression or dominance!
The next day (15th), we left for The Sacred Valley, carefully driven by Mr. Max, with Hilda enthusiastically describing the history and culture of the area – taking care not to let the Incas dominate or (as they did) take over from the Andean heritage … nor condemn or denigrate some of the Spanish imperialism’s impact!
We drove first to Písac – the long way – as the shorter route was still without the road bridge reinstated, (washed out because of the recent floods). Its is a small town or large village on the Urubamba River (a tributary of the Amazon, called first the Vilcanota River then from Písac to Ollntaytambo the Wilcamayu (sacred river before merging with the Apurimac to form the Ucayali). Here's a little local girl who allowed us a snapshot!
We visited ‘Inca Písac’ initially - Inca ruins from around 1440 A.D. that are separated along a ridge overlooking the entrance to the Sacred Valley. The hillside was crammed full of terraces, which must have allows the Incas to produce food at altitudes as high as 11,000 feet! The overall site seems to have been a military, religious, and agricultural significance as well as being a kind of country estate.
Its defensive position on the southern entrance to the Sacred Valley, allowed it to control the route, which connected the Inca Empire with the border of the rain forest region where key supplies could be obtained. The site was taken and destroyed by the Spanish Conquistadores around 1530 A.D., following which the foundation of the modern Písac was built down in the valley.
There’s a market regularly in Písac – a bit of a tourist thing – but there are fruit & vegetable stalls too – so there is a local need. We bought a painting by local artist Teofilo Quilca Turpo – plus a decorative gourd, not too mention a silver llama!
Next blog --- down towards Ollantaytambo!
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