Trip to Singapore and Australia; October 2017

30th September & 1st October 2017 Set off - all excited - Manchester to Singapore with Singapore Airlines, Got to the hotel at 10.00 am after a good flight but little sleep. Got into our room at 11:00 after a coffee and something to eat for Margaret. (John had a headache). We had a short nap then we walked around the harbour. We did this in a light rain but luckily it wasn't tooo hot. We walked part of the GP circuit and went to to the Skypark. We had an early meal in the hotel and went to bed at 8pm! 2nd October Up and had a breakfast by 09:00 and walked to the Gardens By The Bay We thought it really well done and enjoyed the Flower Dome but the Cloud Forest Dome was fantastic Then we went to extraordinary shaped Science Museum In the afternoon we walked to the Raffles Hotel (where we could have stayed but they were refurbishing it) - we had a drink - I had a Singapore Sling we watched a bloke preparing lots of them .... Margaret had an orange juice and I opened two monkey nuts and threw the empty shells on the floor. We got a taxi back to the hotel, had a meal at the hotel then watched the light & music show Tuesday 3rd October We slept badly. After breakfast we went on the Singapore Flyer - walked back via the The Shoppes, part of the Marina Bay Sands resort, (which is how we got there), and bought some socks for me (I had not packed any!). After lunch we strolled around the Singapore Botanic Gardens (lunch was had there). We did the Fern Walk and the National Orchid Garden (it rained!). We went to the airport at 6.30pm for our flight to Melbourne. Wednesday 4th October (4th day away!). Got to the hotel (Crown Metropol) straight from the flight and a room was ready for us. We went out for a coffee and a quick walk. Slept for a couple of hours. Up by 2pm local time and had a walk around but not 'wowed' with Melbourne so far ....We had our evening meal at Dinner By Heston - nice experience but not the best food. Nice service: (met a nice girl ex London's Dinner By Heston). We noticed from 8pm eight towers along the Southbank shot large gas fireballs into the night’s sky (courtesy of the casino!). Thursday 5th October Got picked up after breakfast by Peter of The Private Tour Guide https://youtu.be/5Oi2FqN6fHQ It was a long day and guide was a chauvinistic bad driver but showed us some interesting sights. The ‘golfing’ kangaroos of Anglesea, as well as Wild Koalas. Plus the Surf Coast and Split Point Lighthouse where we had a coffee. The Memorial Archway to soldiers who built part of the road, as well as Lorne - Victoria’s most premier coastal resort town. At Apollo Bay we flew with Vic Bongiorno of Apollo Bay Aviation and viewed the Ship Wreck Coast, the 12 Apostles and Loch Ard Gorge. That night we had a meal at Rosetta Ristorante. Friday 6th October We had breakfast on the 28th Floor and here is a composite photo of the hotel.... We then walked to the Botanical Gardens Saw plenty of plants etc and a few birds (including these black swans) and then walked over to the MCG and took a tour (one & a half hours! The Melbourne Cricket Ground (MCG), also known simply as "The G", is an Australian sports stadium located in Yarra Park. Home to the Melbourne Cricket Club it is the largest stadium in Australia & the Southern Hemisphere, as well as the largest cricket ground anywhere. Since it was built in 1853, the MCG has been in a state of almost constant renewal. It served as the centre-piece stadium of the 956 Olympics and 2006 Commonwealth Games as well as 2 world Cups (1993 7 2015) - famous for its role in the development of international cricket being the venue for both the first Test match in 1877 and 1971 respectively. The annual Boxing Day Test is one of the MCG's most popular events. Then we took a short tram ride back ... we ate at an Italian.. Saturday 7th October Up early and breakfast in the room ...Plane from Melbourne to Cairns - 3.5 hours! Now only 9 hours ahead of UK. Hotel is Palm Cove Reef House - with had a nice room with it's own spa outside. Until we could check in we lazed on the very good beach. Weather very hot and humid. There was a food fair in Palm Cove all along the front - that evening we ate in Portofino (not brilliant). Margaret had a headache. Sunday 8th October Margaret still not feeling brilliant so I went to Daintree Rainforest by myself. I was the last to be picked up (it was still early) and we drove up Captain Cook Highway. It starts in the Cairns as Sheridan St, passing through the Cairn's northern beaches before reaching Port Douglas. It then passes through Mossman on the Mossman-Daintree Rd. (it is now known as the Great Barrier Reef Drive, and is 140 km of beauty. The road winds between two world heritage icons that Tropical North Queensland is famous for: the Wet Tropics Rainforest and the Great Barrier Reef. I was with Billy Tea Safaris - on their 4WD Bloomfield Track Tour. We drove up through sugar cane farmland (with specialist railway lins) which contrasted with the seascape especially as we approached the majestic Daintree River. We ascended the Alexandra Range and had a panoramic view of World Heritage Tropical Rainforest merging with the azure colours of the Coral Sea. We had a brief morning tea/coffee break and then cruised on the Daintree river cruise. We spotted an Estuarine Crocodiles then drifted down a mangrove forest edge looking for wildlife, saw two small crocodiles, a Boyd's Dragon and a Frog Mouth bird plus Eclectus Parrots, Baby Crocodiles, and two types of python. W e also did a walk through the Daintree Rainforest on a boardwalk with our amazing guides and learnt something about Aboriginal culture and rare flora & fauna. We had a BBQ lunch and looked at recovering rescued Wallabies. Then we had a swim in the freshwater at the pristine Emmogen Creek. We taste tasted some local tropical exotic fruits and enjoy a freshly brewed cup of traditional Billy Tea and a piece of Australian Damper (none brilliant!). At Cape Tribulation Beach there is a  stroll along the beach and boardwalk to the photographers' platform overlooking the mountains and coast where the 'Rainforest meets the Reef. Time permitted us to make a quick stop for a locally home made exotic tropical fruit ice-cream then we crossed the Daintree River by cable ferry. Then back to the hotel ...Margaret had done two walks locally, read a bit and had a coffee. She did some shopping. Later we had an Italian meal then watched a Hugh Laurie comedy. Monday 9th October Up early and had breakfast - then both of us swam in the sea. Then Margaret had a quick dip in the pool and we wrote postcards and had lunch in room (salami and biscuits). After lunch we had another dip in the sea and then had a spa bath. Later we had a meal in the hotel then walked along the front ... now quite quiet as the food fair had gone. Tuesday 10th October We had breakfast and then got dropped off at Cairns to fly to Brisbane. Took nearly two hours and after we checked in the the Royal On The Park we walked across the road and took in the Botanical Gardens (had a cuppa and a snack there). Back to hotel for the air conditioning and had dinner in the hotel. Wednesday 11th October Up early and had a pleasant breakfast. Lady driver picked us up and was very pleasant - flight had a slight delay and we had to wait in Gladstone Airport for the coach to transfer us to the marina. With then had a 2 hour boat trip to Heron Island, After we were shone to the room we had dinner at 6:15pm. Lots of white capped Black Noddies in the surrounding trees. Heron Island was used as a turtle cannery until 1923 and declared a National Park in 1943. The island now comprises of a 200-guest resort, and the Heron Island Research Station; one of the world’s finest coral reef research facilities. The wreck of the HMAS Protector can be seen on the side of the boat channel. Purchased by the South Australian government in 1884, the warship saw service in the Boxer Rebellion and both World Wars before being taken to Heron Island to act as a breakwater in 1943, after a collision with a tug boat. Heron Island is home to over 900 of the 1500 species of fish found on the Great Barrier Reef and over 70% of the coral species. It is famous for its coral gardens and underwater pinnacles. Thursday 12th October Up early for breakfast then I had a refresher dive with Orla. Margaret came to the very salty pool to watch. I went out for dive on Heron Bommie.... probably the best fish dive site in Australia. After lunch I dived Plate Ledge. Then back and we had dinner... Friday 13th October Up early at 6.45am so we had breakfast early, then I dived North Bommie. Margaret saw sharks in the shallow water around the jetty. After lunch (that seemed mostly cheese!); Margaret went on a bird walk and a swim. In th afternoon I dived Tenements. We met up and then had dinner in a confused restaurant - who seemed uncertain about what 'meal plan' meant. Saturday 14th October Early breakfast - it was very wet (!) during the night and still raining in the morning (on and off). I set off to dive Harry's Bommie. After a pleasant lunch (Margaret had a burger and I had hake) I dived Plate Ledge again. We went briefly into the sea and then read and had dinner. Sunday 15th October Still wet and we had a bit of a lie in - getting up at 7.30am - had breakfast and used the laundry. Watched the catamaran leave at quarter to 10ish. Then we read and watched the noddies. After lunch I went snorkelling and then we watched the noddies' nest building! They love the wet Pisona leaves ... AS Attenborough's highly-anticipated Blue Planet II hits TV screens on Sunday, October 29, SARAH MARSHALL visits the world's largest coral reef system and finds out what's really going on with Australia's biggest tourist attraction. ""There's something universally irritating about noisy eaters, but below the surface of the ocean, dining etiquette doesn't really apply. Munching merrily on brittle stumps of branch coral, a shoal of rainbow-hued parrot fish is causing quite a commotion. A black-tip reef shark wriggles to the silent safety of a shadowy jetty, white-spotted eagle rays flap their wings to pick up speed and giant clams appear to purse their thick blue lips in a concertina of disgust. It's the restaurant's rush hour off the shores of Heron Island, a coral cay sprouting with dense Pisonia forest and ringed by a brilliant white halo of sand, off the east coast of Australia at the southern end of the Great Barrier Reef. Yet, lifting my head out of the water to gasp air, I'm met with silence and calm. Teeming with wildlife and natural wonders, our oceans are a noisy place. And right now, they're crying out for help, a reality we're only just tuning into. Marine conservation is a central theme of BBC One's highly-anticipated Blue Planet II series, narrated by Sir David Attenborough, and the naturalist is urging us to protect an environment we know woefully little about. Earlier this year, Australia's Great Barrier Reef was the subject of controversy when scientists warned that more than 90 per cent of the planet's largest living organism might have been destroyed. Having narrowly escaped being listed by Unesco as a World Heritage Site in Danger, a recovery plan is now under way - both for the reef and its worldwide reputation. Sir David has been to Heron Island several times and describes it as one of the most magical places on earth. After his last visit, the 300-person resort was at full capacity. "We call that the Attenborough effect," says general manager Sandy McFeeters. Located 81km from Gladstone, Queensland, the island is reached by a two-and-a-half-hour boat journey or, as in my case, by a 20-minute seaplane ride, wading to shore in clear, warm water with luggage hoisted overhead. There's no phone coverage, no disturbance and no locking system on doors. At sunset, a burning ember fizzles below the horizon, singing the sky with charcoal streaks, and nightfall invites a starlit 40-minute circumnavigation. An important nesting site for loggerhead and green turtles, the peaceful island has a grim past as a turtle and mutton bird canning factory. Over the course of two summers, 128,000 cans of turtle soup were produced, but an alarming drop in numbers meant the business was no longer economically worthwhile. A resort opened in 1932, although any ecotourism was crude, and gasp-inducing photos from the 1950s show holidaymakers riding on the back of carapaces. Now the island, part of the Capricornia Cays National Park, is heavily protected. Of the 1,500 species of fish living on the Great Barrier Reef, 60 per cent can be found in the 21 dive sites at Heron island, says blond tousle-haired scuba and snorkel guide Rick. Passing the wreck of HMAS Protector, one of Australia's first naval vessels which will be declared a preservation site in 2018, we snorkel to Heron Bommie, a heaving tower of coral not far from the shore. (None of Heron's sites are more than a ten-minute boat ride away.) Two black-tip sharks (Rick's "pussy cats of the reef") relentlessly chase a whitetip around spiral-ridged brain coral, while a green turtle makes himself a comfortable bed on cushioned plates, blinking only a disgruntled eye as we free dive to observe him. Most corals on the Barrier Reef are hard, meaning the underwater scenery is a swirl of camouflage hues, rather than the bold neon brights associated with soft corals. "Besides, below five metres, you lose any colour," explains Rick. Even during winter (August) when I visit, the water is a pleasant 21C and the visibility is excellent. Cooler temperatures partially explain why coral has survived much better here than in northern reaches of the reef. Anything above 30C causes the organisms to expel their zooxanthellae algae, leaving behind a frail white skeleton, a phenomenon known as coral bleaching. Investigation into the effects of climate change is being carried out at the island's Research Centre, built in 1951 and partly funded by the University of Queensland. "The scientific community is divided," explains Education Officer Lauren Bailey. "Some researchers say it's too late and others are confident the reef will survive - it might just look a little different." Innovative projects in development at the centre include Professor Peter Harrison's plan to funnel spawning to affected reefs, and Professor Bernard Degnan's groundbreaking solution for controlling crown of thorns starfish (a potential threat to reefs) - by replicating a natural pheromone to lure them in. "We have to redress all these negative messages," stresses Lauren. "We can't give up hope."A similar outlook is shared by Peter Gash, manager of the eco-resort on Lady Elliot Island, at the southern tip of the reef. Mined for guano in the 1860s, the wind-whipped coral cay was left barren and desolate. Many years later, it opened as a resort and when Peter visited in 1979, a love affair began. Since taking over the lease in 2005, Peter has installed solar panels, cut fuel burn by 90% and replanted much of the original Casuarina forest, bringing back a cacophony of screeching bridled terns and white-capped noddies. "Not everyone is happy about that," he tells me. "But we make sure there are earplugs in every room." Although no spring chicken, Peter is a dynamo. On a guided tour of the resort's back room operations, I'm lost in a muddle of mathematics as he details engineering innovations with vigour. Swept away by his energy and enthusiasm, it's impossible not to smile. And he's obviously making a success; bookings for Lady Elliot need to be made at least six months in advance. Simple rooms curve around the fringes of the island, and drift snorkel sites have been clearly marked out. Like Heron, the underwater spectacles are outstanding, and all within easy reach. One afternoon, I spend several hours wallowing in a shallow lagoon, only accessible at high tide. "Look out for Buddy, our resident turtle," shouts resort manager Andreas Supper, from the restaurant decking. "He likes having his back scratched." Within 45 minutes, I've seen 14 turtles. Distracted by filling their stomachs, none are perplexed by my presence - although I don't receive any invitations for tummy tickling. The best time to explore is at dawn, Peter tells me, so I nervously agree to a 6.30am snorkel. As we walk across the island in semi-darkness, gloomy Pandanus trees appear to be lifting their sinewy roots to join us and flitting bats are in a rush to reach home. Leaving the shadow of the beaming lighthouse behind us, we dive into another reality and Peter guides me on an underwater safari of his favourite sites. Polyps finishing their night's feed sway with the tide, sage loggerheads drift over ancient living columns and mantas glide elegantly with wind in their sails. We're the only two-legged land mammals out of their depth; down here it's a real democracy. As much as the sights are enticing, so too are the sounds. An undulating whine wends into my headpiece and I realise I'm listening to humpback whale song. Even though the migrating animals are probably a long distance away, their stirring voices are penetrating. Yet, there's nothing melancholic or mournful about their cry. Instead, it's graceful and uplifting, striking a chord with hope."" Monday 16th October We left at 9:50 and the crossing to Gladstone was a bit rough but fine for me and Margaret coped ....We did not get the bus but walked into Gladstone. Had lunch at the Lightbox. Espresso + Wine Bar then caught the Brisbane flight & plane to Sydney. Oscar from Patagonia was our driver from the Airport to the hotel - the Shangri-La. Tuesday 17th OctoberWalked about Sydney until we had lunch in the Sydney Tower. Margaret had soup as a starter but I cannot remember anything else.... Afterwards we walked back and then got the open top bus to Bondi Beach. That night we went to a very busy Glenmore Hotel (pub) for dinner. Wednesday 18th OctoberAfter breakfast we took an open-topped bus to the Barracks Museum and saw the convicts' story (J McKenzie - got life T25). After this (which was very good) we took a taxi to the Opera House to see 'Two Weddings, One Bride' an operetta; that we both enjoyed hugely - funny & brilliant! We ate at The Aria Restaurant. Thursday 19th October After breakfast we walked to the circular quay to get a ferry to Manly Wharf. (Manly is bounded by the sea on three sides). There we had coffee and bought some stuff for the girls. Then we walked to the beach and then on to Marine Parade. We had lunch at Criniti's. Then we went back on the ferry (excellent trip!) and we then had a meal on the waterfront at 'Rossini at the Quay' Friday 20th October Woke to rain (expected!) and stayed at the hotel until about 11:45 and then went to meet Fred & Rosemary at The Heritage Both are well and we had a good time catching up etc. as well as lunch. It rained all day. We ate at the Glenmore again at about 6:30pm - which was still busy with a lot of youngsters. Saturday 21st October I woke up with a headache but after tablets soon got better. We went to a small wildlife park then to the Aquatic Centre, which we enjoyed. Then we watched dragon boats racing on the water.

Faroes - May 7th to 14th 2018

Day One - May 7th Flew to the Faroes from Edinburgh (An hour and ten minutes). Got the car from 62 Degrees North and drove to Gásadalur, through the tunnel parked and walked up the hill at the side of the sea - it was stunning - especially looking out to sea at Gásadalur. Blue skies, not at all warm (chilly actually) as it was quite windy and bracing. On the walk we were invited to throw stones by a very friendly collie (kept putting it's head between our legs!). Gásadalur is located on the edge of Mykinesfjørður, surrounded by the highest mountains on Vágar. Árnafjall towers to a height of 722 metres to the north, and Eysturtindur to the east is 715 metres high. Here too, the view south to Tindhólmur and Gáshólmur is quite magnificent. We overnighted at Hotel Føroyar on the outskirts of Torshavn. Beautifully designed and very pleasant food in the restaurant (a buffet) and Margaret enjoyed it particularly. Day Two May 8th We drove on a dull & wet morning to Vestmanna after a buffet breakfast. Did a 2 hour boat ride under sea-cliffs and into grottoes. Margaret took a tablet which knocked her out for the rest of the day. We went to Gjaargardur Guesthouse at Gjogv for 2pm. Margaret thought it like Butlins, but with sheep as neighbours! After dinner (Chicken curry with rice). Margaret was asleep at 8ish and slept all night! Day Three May 9th Drove to the South of the island of Eysturoy through Runavík (and asked at Tourist Information Office about refreshments to be told the cafe closed until 11.30am) - so we filled up with petrol and drove to Æðuvík. We were back at the hotel for twoish. Dinner that wet & windy night was cod with rice and salad (iceberg lettuce, pine nuts, cranberries). Day Four May 10th Left hotel at 9ish and went through two tunnels on the way to Klaksvik - one of which is a sub sea-tunnel called the Nordoyatunnilin, which starts at Leirvík and has lights installed by Tróndur Patursson (who sailed some of the way with Tim Severin in The Brendan Voyage). Then we drove through tunnels through (Nor)Depil - across a bridge - to Hvannasund and decided not go any further and went back - but had to give way in the two tunnels - fair to say Margaret did not like this at all..... Day Five May 11th My birthday, and after a quick breakfast we went for a walk to Hálsur Klakkur. So we walked after parking near the start of the small mountain, Klakkur, - the first bit was on a partially unpaved dirt road, which has been nicknamed Ástarbreytin (The Love Path). The gravel road continues all the way up to a place called Hálsur. Even though the path up to Klakkur is not well marked, it was very easy to find but muddy and grassy all the way up to Klakkur with scarcely a single tiny stone. Apparently this is one of the few places where it is possible to ski in the winter. It was very windy so we did not go right to the top. We then went to the Tourist Information Centre and bought a jumper. Then we had a coffee at Frida Klaksvik Cafe and then went back to the hotel. I went for the ferry across to Kalsoy. The crossing was around 20 minutes but I didn't get on (with the car or on foot) so I went back to the hotel and tried an hour later. Got to Kalsoy and came straight back (having just gone ashore!). We had a burger in Jacqson later .... Day Six May 12th Drove to Saskun on a small single track. The village includes a church, built in 1858, and Dúvugarðar, an active sheep farm which also functions as a museum. Splendidly set in a natural amphitheatre high above a tidal lake, Saksun is a remote hillside village & one of the most worthwhile destinations we went to. Apparently known for its tranquil atmosphere, this tiny hamlet has 14 inhabitants and offers some amazing views. In the fjord, which now has sandy beach-like deposit that stops entrance of ships/boats from the sea down at the foot of the village, is a lake and at low tide which it was, it was possible for us to walk along the black sandy shore. We didn't go right out out the beach at the sea shore around the headland but could have. Great walk and we were lucky with the weather has it just started to rain when we just about got to the top and back to the car. There were scuba enthusiasts in the river just after the lake. We then drove to the hotel after lunching in on the track back. Got to the hotel at about 3ish. Read and then dinner. Day Seven May 13th Torshavn - Had breakfast and read a bit - then went into town, when it looked like our room was going to be serviced. Looked at the Parliment buildings and mooched around looking at the ferry. Had a coffee at Panamone coffee house and then walked around a bit and then bought a Faroese cardigan for me. Back for our lunch and read more until an early dinner and then early bed after packing. Day Eight May 14th Poor day visibility wise. Had breakfast, checked out after buying some gloves and set off for the airport - refuelled car in Sørvágur and then went to check in having dropped the car off. Everything fine - and valet parking at Edinburgh Airport easy too. Took five hours plus to get home down the A1 and A1(M). Margaret had a headache and I took some tablets to avoid one. Got home about 7ish.

Trip out to Esparron - Stan & Jane's place - Half Term February 2018

Soulan de Touille, 31420 Esparron Sophie, Stan and I skied Tuesday (13th February 2018) and I did my left leg calf muscle in badly so that was that! Luckily, Sophie was the named driver so drive us back. The next day we spent a leisurely lunch at Restaurant Castet - and very good it was too. Castet in Martres-Tolosane The following day we drove (well Sophie did) to Spain and back. Had lunch outside a small tapas place in Bossòst, whilst enjoying sun and a 21 degree heat! small tapas place in Bossòst We returned via Bagnères-de-Luchon - Stan & I got a beer in, whilst Jane, Margaret & Sophie explored this spa town. We flew home the next day.

Orkney and Shetland including Fair Isle. 16th to 26th July

Sunday 23rd July We had breakfast then walked to the North Lighthouse, with something for a picnic lunch, thanks to Dave. The weather was cloudy, and it was not as pleasant as yesterday. We had a break for tea at the FIBO – first using the Visitors’ Centre, where a barefoot Scandinavian asked us if we could give him a lift to the Kirk – or where anyone who could help are? We told him we were visitors, and couldn’t help him, although Margaret told him that she had heard someone upstairs… We started off again – another 45 minutes to the North Light. We saw a couple of men off the track being bombarded by Bonxies. We get there and mooched around. Just to note some facts about the lighthouse. Its characteristics are that it flashing white 2 times every 30 seconds. Its elevation is 80 metres with a nominal range of 22 nautical miles from a white tower that is 14 metres high. There are 37 steps to the top of tower. We started to walk back – wanting to have lunch in a picturesque spot out of the wind! We succeeded. We then called into FIOB for another tea and then walked back to the South Island Lighthouse. 22nd July After breakfast drove up to Tingwall Airport, left the car and got the Britten-Norman Islander to Fair Isle. Josie, (a Dutch Lady), picked us up and drove us to the South Lighthouse after dropping off a woman we met in the airport (she'd been to dentists - in Lerwick). Met Dave at the lighthouse and had a cup of tea ... We got a packed lunch made by Dave (ex Derby!) and went up on the cliffs to have a viewpoint ... beautiful day but not unexpectedly, with a fair wind! That night - after a far too big dinner of steak pie etc. we were driven over to the Bird Observatory (FIBO) for a music night ... though that was wrong! We met John (again!) an ex Durham 83 year old, Chloe - who was from Annecy but did not sound anything but local - probably met or recognised a few others... we left at about 10:30 and we're asleep by about 11:15! We were guests at the South Lighthouse (called Skaddan) - the North is called Skroo. We walked via the Bird Observatory to it and back ... though my right foot pain didn't help!

21st July Went to Unst via Yell today on 0915 ferry to Yell and 0945 ferry to Unst - (Toft to Ulst then Gutcher to Belmont). Drove north to Hermaness bird reserve (https://www.visitscotland.com/info/see-do/hermaness-national-nature-reserve-p246921) and Margaret saw her first puffins! Lots of Bonnies - some very aggressive with each other and gannets. I also think I saw a Dunlin and a Turnstone or a Ringed Plover? We had a challenging cliff-top walk, headed to Unst. As well as discovering one of Shetland’s best seabird colonies we noticed Bonxies who are proud parents & in protecting their chicks they dive bombed people although we spared. We limited any potential disturbance & kept moving. Apparently 50% of the world’s population is in Shetland, with 650 pairs breeding on the moor at Hermaness. They are only seen from April to September. We did a 3 to 4 hour walk on moderate ground, though with boggy areas and steep cliffs but thankfully some wooden walkways are provided. We got back to hotel about 4:30pm.... collapsed and had a tea.... then dinner at 6:15 and bed early .... ready for Fair Isle tomorrow. 20th July - Flew to Shetland from Kirkwall. 19th July - Up at 06.12 to drive to Houton for the car ferry to Lyness on Hoy via Flotta. Hoy - from The Norse meaning Háey - High Island - has an area of 143 square kilometres (55 sq mi) & it is the second largest in the archipelago after the Mainland. It is connected by a causeway called The Ayre to an island we drove around called South Walls. Unusually, the two islands are treated as one entity by the UK census. We called in and walked at Rathwick Bay - in great sunshine but strong winds! Its a beautiful spot with azure seas near in and a bit further out gannets diving... The dramatic coastline of Hoy greets visitors travelling to Orkney by ferry from the Scottish mainland. It has extremes of many kinds: some of the highest sea cliffs in the UK at St John's Head, which reach 1,150 feet... Near here too is the impressive and famous sea stack, the Old Man Of Hoy - which we didn't walk to. As I have written we walked instead into Rackwick Bay, which is a strikingly desolate yet beautiful beach. Enclosed by red sandstone cliffs, its pinkish sands are backed by smooth boulders. Seals bob in the breakers and seabirds nest in the surrounding cliffs. The most northerly Martello Towers were built to defend the area during the Napoleonic War, but were never used in combat. The highest point in Orkney, is on Hoy - Ward Hill. The main naval base for the British fleet in both the First and Second World Wars, Scapa Flow, was situated at Lyness. We went for a chocolate drink at the Scapa Flow Museum. An unusual rock-cut tomb, the Dwarfie Stane, lies in the Rackwick valley in the north of the island. It is unique in Northern Europe bearing similarity to tombs around the Mediterranean. The tomb gets its name as it is very small and was said to be carved by dwarfs. The northern part of the island is an RSPB Reserve - due to its importance for birdlife, particularly Great Skuas which we saw. Beneth'ill Cafe - was the coffee place that was closed to start with (before 10.00!). We went back after Rathwick Bay at about 11:15 to have tea, scone and an egg & bacon roll! 18th July Next day it was bright and sunny - after breakfast we set off and explored Neolithic Orkney. The Standing Stones of Stenness is a Neolithic monument five miles northeast of Stromness This may be the oldest henge site in the British Isles. The Ring of Brodgar (or Brogar, or Ring o' Brodgar) is a Neolithic henge and stone circle. Most henges do not contain stone circles; Brodgar is a striking exception, ranking with Avebury among the greatest of such sites. The ring of stones stands on a small isthmus between the Lochs of Stenness and Harray. The Lochs of Stenness and Harray. Unlike similar structures such as Avebury, there are no obvious stones inside the circle, but since the interior of the circle has never been excavated - the possibility remains that wooden structures, for example, may have been present. The site has resisted attempts at scientific dating and the monument's age remains uncertain. It is generally thought to have been erected between 2500 BC and 2000 BC, The Ness of Brodgar is an archaeological site covering 6.2 acres. Excavations at the site began in 2003. The site has provided evidence of decorated stone slabs, a stone wall 6 metres (20 ft) thick with foundations, and a large building described as a Neolithic temple. The earliest structures were built between 3,300 and 3,200 BCE. and the site had been closed down and partly dismantled by 2,200 BCE. Skara Brae is a stone-built Neolithic settlement, located on the Bay of Skaill on the west coast of the Mainland. Consisting of eight clustered houses, it was occupied from roughly 3180 BC to about 2500 BC. Europe's most complete Neolithic village, is older than Stonehenge and the Great Pyramids. After seeing Neolithic Orkney we drove towards Birsay and looked into the hide at the Loons.... Apparently the Loons and Loch of Banks are the largest remaining wetlands in Orkney, and the perfect places to see wetland wildlife at its best.... though we only saw a few sand martins, a very aggressive coot and some mallards - although in a field further over we saw a flock of birds we couldn't identify that had been spooked by something? I think we saw a scaup too... We then drove into Birsay for lunch at the tea house. Then, ignoring the Earl's Palace, we drove to enjoy a walk in the glorious sunshine at Brought Headland. Then off we set .. going around the Mainland on the A966 until we got to Finnstown where we went to look at the Maes Howe but this a tour advanced booking only so we went into Kirkwall for some ginger, for possible avoidance of sea-sickness; the Times and to post cards home... back to the hotel for dinner... On 17th had breakfast and then drove to Stromness, thinking we could get a ferry to Hoy.... not that simple! We watched a Pipe Band doing something - probably to do with the world famous 'Shopping Week' in Stromness and then had a coffee. We left for Kirkwall, via Huston to get a reservation for ferry to Hoy ... could only get 8am on Wednesday ... we looked at Waulkmill Bay then we walked down to the cliffs at Hobbister RSPB reserve. We then went into Kirkwall, parking near the Police Station and having lunch at The Reel ... tuna sandwiches... then we walked along the shopping area and bought a puffin glove and 'T' shirt for Arlo as well as a couple of postcards.. Then we walked on the front and found our way into St Magnus' Cathedral - rather magnificent ... the original bit over 860 years old! Then we looked at the Bishops Palace - but we did not go in and instead headed south to see the Italian Chapel at Lamb Holm. Crossed all the Churchill Barriers which are a series of four causeways in the Orkney Islands, United Kingdom, with a total length of 1.5 miles linking the Orkney Mainland to the island of South Ronaldsay via Burray and the two smaller islands of Lamb Holm and Glimps Holm. The barriers were built in the 1940s primarily as naval defences to protect the anchorage at Scapa Flow, but now serve as road links, carrying the A961 road from Kirkwall to Burwick. Then we drove South to the Tomb of the Eagles ... had a talk from an old lady about the burnt house and a talk from Kathleen about the Tomb of the Eagles ... then we had a very windy walk to see them! Then back to the hotel for dinner ..... 16th July Got our flight to Manchester and learnt Paul was going to retire before we got back. Flew to Edinburgh then got an even smaller plane (Saab 400) to Kirkwall. Didn't take as long as I thought ... we found the car ... a Peugeot 208 with a very strange clutch! SK16 BOF. Got to hotel Lynnfield Hotel and had dinner then sleep!